Door casings

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I have a joiner coming to fit new door casings. I’ve sourced the timber I’ve gone for 20mm thickness.

Is that ok? I’ve seen the kits and rebated kits are bit thicker. Just wondered as they only had 20mm and 32mm timber at the place I went to.

Thanks.
 
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You should have gone for the 32mm. A good wood yard will happily supply read made door lining that are pre notched. You've saved money by sourcing yourself, but it'll cost more for the chippies time to then work with the stuff you've got, and 20mm will only allow lightweight doors to be hung.
 
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Thanks for the advice tictac. Yeah I’ve seen they had linings and rebated linings too. The problem is that one of the doors is a double door and the other is pretty deep and is having dot and dab one side so I guess I couldnt get 170mm linings for it?

Do you think the 20mm timber I bought will feel low quality? Will it be able to take my oak veneered doors?

Thanks for the help and advice.
 
It'll depend on the weight of the doors, but I'd think twice on the 20mm.
 
28mm is the thinnest you should go. 32mm is better.

The thing to remember is that hinges screws are usually 30mm or 35mm so will go through your 20mm material.

20mm timber can be bent out of shape when being screwed in place, so more care is needed to wedge up the door liner.
 
Tell him to glue some scrap wood blocks on the back of the casing where the hinges are going to be, to give you extra thickness.
door-linings-168.jpg
 
That still doesn't give bit any strength, Gerry. For that you really do need the thickness otherwise it will all move in time and the doors will eventually droop
 
Do you know the size of the opening in the walls? That minus the width of the doors you are planning to use will determing the thickness of the door linings/casings you will need.
20mm (3/4inch) is definately to thin. Do lining sets are just as cheap as plain timber and will save on making up.
By the way - I was taught that door lining was made from 5x1&1/4 (32mm) stuff; door casings from 5x3 (or 4&1/2x3inch) timber.
 
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Isn't foam inherently more fire retardant than the air that would otherwise be behind the casing?

Only if it’s fire-rated foam.

(Are you supposed to fill any gap around a firedoor frame with e.g. mineral wool?)
 
Can you explain that more for me? Isn't foam inherently more fire retardant than the air that would otherwise be behind the casing?
In independent testing by both labs and various fire brigades many expanding foams have been found to combust readily at far lower temperatures than was previously thought, as well as producing toxic vapours/smoke in a number of instances Even some of the pink "fire foams" are little better - only a burn test of the complete system can prove the combination of elements (and obviously that isn't a goer for one-off doors). Mineral wool, an old tried and tested packing, in conjunction with intumescent caulk are now the preferred approach for untestable situations as this has been proven to be effective over a very long period. This came up when a couple of us were required to undertake the FDIS Diploma in Fire Doors training in order to insect and pass the doors our teams were installing (another royal PIA)

Are you supposed to fill any gap around a firedoor frame with e.g. mineral wool?
Yes, and if it is 1 hour rated a 10mm layer of intumescent caulk (fire mastic or fire stopping) is required between the wool and the back surface of the architrave
 

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