Door hinges in middle of frame

[Woodsy5]

Hi hope someone can come up with a better solution to my problem please.

I’ve moved into an house that had no door in the bathroom. Think it was removed during a refit.

My problem is the door hinges are in the middle of the frame. Is there any hinges that are designed for this type of installation? I was going to move the door flush to the frame but this will look odd as I think it was never designed to be like that.

Any ideas is appreciated.

Thank you.

 

[RandomGrinch]

I'm sure others will have the proper solution.
But in similar circumstances, I used some heavy duty flush hinges - I'm afraid I can't vouch for their efficacy, but they were something like this:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stainless-Tiberham-Movement-Replacement-Cupboard/dp/B07T9VTKMZ

 

[bernardgreen]

If the new timber is strong enough then move the hinges onto the new timber.

Question is... Why was the extra timber added to the door frame,

 

[Tigercubrider]

I'm not really sure what the issue is, but can't you simply move the door inwards towards the bathroom?
And move the door jamb inwards as well?

Obviously cutting new hinge rebates and filling the old

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

Question is... Why was the extra timber added to the door frame,

Presumably during the refit they fitted tiles to the inside where there were none before so had to pack out the frames. Maybe.

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

My problem is the door hinges are in the middle of the frame. Is there any hinges that are designed for this type of installation?

Assuming the hinge issue could be sorted, if you did fit the door where it was, would there be enough clearance between the edge of the door where it swings against the frame on the other side?

 

[big-all]

if you use wide throw hinges you need to remove perhaps an extra 5mm from the lock side as the door will turn into the equivilent to perhaps 76mm thick as the pivot point is about 76mm from the outer face

 

[opps]

if you use wide throw hinges you need to remove perhaps an extra 5mm from the lock side as the door will turn into the equivilent to perhaps 76mm thick as the pivot point is about 76mm from the outer face

I guess that wide throw (/parliament/projection) hinges will work if the hinge knuckle extends past the bit that was added, but I can't be bothered to sit down and calculate the amount of the door lock edge that needs to be removed, and yes, you are absolutely correct that some will be. However I suspect that the amount required will be far more than 5mm.

I would follow the earlier advice to move the door stop and take the door further in to the room ,but I am concerned about the meeting face, namely the tiles and carpet no longer being hidden by the door.

EDIT- On consideration, having looked at the floor, it looks like the original plan was to move the door further in to the room- I am looking at where the floor tiles terminate, ie under a door moved towards the bathroom.

Wide throw/ projection hinges that big would be awfully expensive- possibly more so than the door.

As an aside, I once had a customer that had a door in her bathroom fitted by the "builders" fitting her bathroom, she bemoaned the fact that she could only open the door to about 65 degrees. I told the that she needed parliament hinges to clear the skirting. They purchased the ones that I recommended... and then fitted them deeper in to the door and frame, thereby negating the point of using them in the first place...

 

[Woodsy5]

I'm not really sure what the issue is, but can't you simply move the door inwards towards the bathroom?
And move the door jamb inwards as well?

Obviously cutting new hinge rebates and filling the old

Yeah that’s what I’m going to do. I’ve never owned an older house before and didn’t know if it was normal to have hinges designed to fit flush to the frame in the middle

 

[Woodsy5]

Thanks everyone for all your input and coming up with a solution. I will move the hinges on to the new timber.

I was over thinking things in my head wondering if I’ve missed a simple solution to not moving everything forward into the bathroom.

 

[diy_fun_uk]

It would have been good to see pics from inside the bathroom looking out. The extra depth can't have been for tiles (unless they've since been removed) because there are no tiles to be seen. Maybe if the depth created by the extra wood isn't required, it can simply be removed and made good, returning the surrounding frame and depth to the original?

 

[opps]

It would have been good to see pics from inside the bathroom looking out. The extra depth can't have been for tiles (unless they've since been removed) because there are no tiles to be seen. Maybe if the depth created by the extra wood isn't required, it can simply be removed and made good, returning the surrounding frame and depth to the original?

I am wondering if the wall (and accordingly the frame) was packed out to ensure no gaps at the end of the bath.

 

[Notch7]

Thanks everyone for all your input and coming up with a solution. I will move the hinges on to the new timber.

I was over thinking things in my head wondering if I’ve missed a simple solution to not moving everything forward into the bathroom.

And rip off the door stop, then add an extra side one to cover all the gaps etc.

 

[opps]

And rip off the door stop, then add an extra side one to cover all the gaps etc.

I assume you mean "wide", not side