Door lining in larger cavity opening

[Rob36]

Hi all

I've recently removed an old door and frame from the dining room going into the utility room and looking to replace with a standard 762 door.

The lining I have is about 30 mil shy either side which I will piece out with some extra timber that I've had ripped to 30 mil but I am struggling to figure out how to attach to the wall because of the cavity void (drilling a hole in the breeze block and plugging is only leaving a few mm to the cavity and same story for the Brick end). The wall is not plumb or level which is not making things easier.

Any ideas on how I can get around this?

 

[Notch7]

Hi all

I've recently removed an old door and frame from the dining room going into the utility room and looking to replace with a standard 762 door.

The lining I have is about 30 mil shy either side which I will piece out with some extra timber that I've had ripped to 30 mil but I am struggling to figure out how to attach to the wall because of the cavity void (drilling a hole in the breeze block and plugging is only leaving a few mm to the cavity and same story for the Brick end). The wall is not plumb or level which is not making things easier.

Any ideas on how I can get around this?

Can you not screw and glue to the lining?

 

[Rob36]

When I've packed out the sides yes it wouldn't be an issue to screw and glue the lining to the packing.

The issue I'm facing is screwing the packing to the bricks because of the void. I've tried a few pilot holes and bricks are cracking because of the close proximity to the edge of them.

If it wasn't a cavity wall I would be laughing. I know you can get cavity closers but is filling in the cavity a few inches and smoothing out the wall an option? Just so I can get a nice straight edge to pack and apply lining to?

 

[Diver Fred]

Was this originally an external doorway? From your picture it looks like it was in which case what you have removed is what I know as a 'door casing' (thicker timber).
Was? Is? there Timber 'Pads' replacing the mortar at 3 or 4 places up side of the doorway. If there is then can use those pads to fix the door lining to? If not then can you chop out the mortar at appropriate courses - where both the brick and the block joints align then use that to fix the new woodwork..

 

[Rob36]

Cheers for the reply wgt. Not sure if this was originally an external doorway but definitely been there since the house was built in the 70's. The timber casing I removed was quite thick but there wasn't any pads that you referred to (just some big ass nails holding the casing to the mortar)

So do you suggest I chip out the aligning mortar and fix a block of a certain length timber into that section and screw in? So that I can then fix my packing pieces to before lining?

 

[Diver Fred]

From your comments about nails in the mortar I will say the casing was built in when the house was built. Was there a cill in place as well?
What is the width of the opening between the bricks? I guess the original door was a 30' one.

Looking at the picture on a bigger screen it looks like there is a damp proof sheet between the leafs of the wall. That brings along an issue. I do not want recommend damaging damp proofing. So my thoughts are;
1: on the brick leaf chop out the mortar where the nails where to a depth of 2 to 3 inches (50-75mm) cut pads to fit and tamp in. When fixing the new woodwork in that will tighten the pad in the leaf.
2: Get a carpenter to make you a new casing and fix.
3: Or, put a new lining together, put in situe in the opening and then using packing pieces cut carefully to size fix through the packing into the pads. You need a lining that is at last the same width (front to back) as the original to cover up the work you are doing.

Good luck