Dot & Dab on rendered wall?

[snadge]

As some of you know I have to Dot&Dab the kitchen...
the reason as cos it is cover in thick pasty artex and also one half was covered in tiles and taking them off brought some of the finish plaster off revealing render underneath

now my plan was to remove all the loose stuff and put PVA on and get going but ive never Dry walled before so i thought I better check incase its the wrong thing to do... does all the render need to be chiseled off the block wall with spade end machine before hand or can i just go with my original plan?

see my photo below, u can see the render underneath where some of the plaster has come off - in one spot about 50 ml diameter you can see the block wall

thanks in advance

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

If the wall surface is sound, you can go directly on to it, if you wish. If not remove it, as the weight of the board will just pull it away.
I would have a look at the electrics first though, the socket and junction connection in your photo is not allowed, as it is not routed in a permitted safe zone or protected by mechanical protection and any junction point should be accessible.

 

[snadge]

If the wall surface is sound, you can go directly on to it, if you wish. If not remove it, as the weight of the board will just pull it away.
I would have a look at the electrics first though, the socket and junction connection in your photo is not allowed, as it is not routed in a permitted safe zone or protected by mechanical protection and any junction point should be accessible.

thanks

i think all the electrics are iffy in this 50 year old house... the lights in hallway and upstairs passage go off when you turn other one on and stuff like that, when i pulled the ceiling down there were cracked junction boxes, cables ALL OVER just hanging..not fixed safely to joists or anything... dunno what to do cos A) we need a plumber in to sort boiler and radiators and we havent got money for that...and now electrician?

what exactly is wrong with it? ive a feeling if i got sparky in he gunna find all sorts - it has the new fusebox in and we are insured through mortgage (if that helps) i dunno why that J-box is there - same on sockets on othersidre

 

[RonnyRaygun]

I know money is an issue but I would definitely get the kitchen electrics sorted before dotting and dabbing. Much better to have an installation that you have confidence in than have a constant worry that something is going to go wrong.

Looks to me like the socket is a spur off the main ring (usually done from another socket making access possible). Cables should run either horizontally or vertically between sockets, not diagonally, to reduce risk of drilling through them and getting a jolt

If you have to rewire once kitchen is complete you are either going to have to surface mount everything or rip off all your tiles etc and start again...

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Unfortunately when you take on projects like this you will find all sorts of problems.
I have done a few and seldom are they straight forward.
Firstly I will address the issue in your photo.
There are permitted safe zones where cables can run in walls. This is to prevent for example, people drilling in to walls to hang brackets shelves etc.. and drill straight through the cable and the hazards that come with that.
The permitted safe zones with the help of the location of accessories(switch and socket plates) will inform you of the route of the cable.
This link will help you understand;
//www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:installation_techniques:walls

Any junctions or joints in cables should also be easily accessible for inspection and testing.
I would stress the importance of having your electrical installation checked over.
A little planning now will save you a big headache and money later on.
If your having a new kitchen fitted, it is very much likely that the current electrical installation is not suitable and changes are needed.
If the installation is going on for 50 years old, it needs updating.