Down lights guidance

[Mpen]

I'm a qualified sparky who didnt have the greatest apprenticeship (pretty much all industrial with alot of containment) and since finishing my apprenticeship, I have worked in oil and gas for the last 8 years. Currently furloughed with mental expectation of being made redundant and going back sparkying, so just trying to prepare and get my confidence.

One thing which I'm sure is easy enough but nothing I've really done, is down lights. They normally look great when finished and I've always been worried about making a **** job of it. So could anyone give me any guidance on making a good job in a fully finished house eg. Making sure they are all straight when walls could be squint when no chalk line can be used, how many is the perfect amount to use (obviously size of room would help confirm this too), making sure to give enough clearance from joists etc, just any guidance? Pretty vague post but as you can see, need to get my confidence up! Thanks

 

[securespark]

Lasers are great for getting a straight line, no messy chalk lines and easy to adjust to get the right line.

It's important to give the correct clearances between the fittings and floorboards, joists etc...these are usually given in the installation instructions.

The amount of light (in lumens) required to effectively illuminate a room depends on several factors such as the needs of the user, the shape, height and size of the room and the colour of its decorations, furnishings and wall coverings.

Each lamp emits a beam of light and the spacing of these should allow for an overlap to give as even a spread of light as possible across the room.

You also need to consider where light is needed (for example, over worktops in kitchens, chairs or sofas for reading or over a bathroom sink for make up etc).

Recessed lighting should not be too close to the edges of the room or it may create shadows. I aim for around 0.8m between the walls and the centre of the fitting. The beams of light from each lamp should intersect before hitting the floor, I try to aim for 0.8m.

As for the distance between the fittings, some people divide the ceiling height by two and use that figure. But I prefer to take account of the other factors I mentioned previously.

 

[blup]

Loads of good youtube videos by current professional uk electricians for guidance.

The latest downlights are designed to speed up the terminations.

And this to reduce the mess:

DADE Drill Dust Collector Eliminator D.A.D.E Holesaw Drilling Vertically Ceiling: Amazon.co.uk: Kitchen & Home

Blup

 

[Taylortwocities]

So could anyone give me any guidance on making a good job in a fully finished house

Hmm. My guidance is to do this work before the house is fully finished.
How fully finished is it?
you do know that you probably are going to have to take up flooring to run cables? Or chop holes in the ceiling (not just the downlight holes either).

 

[Mpen]

Thanks very much for your replies, will definitely help me.

Taylor cheers for reply. I'm aware of the things you stated. Was more just the basic understanding of making a good finish and spacings etc to get my confidence up if I have to go back sparkying. Not done much domestic so I'm competent in wiring, but just the finer details I havent had much experience

 

[RF Lighting]

Definitely get your self a laser level. They are perfect for making sure you get your lights straight.

I have the dewalt DW088 which Screwfix are now doing for £115 which is super cheap.

 

[Mpen]

Thanks for the replies. I also saw this, not sure if anyone has used this as a template before (see attached photo). Also whats your preferred method of making sure no joists are within minimum distance? Would you draw template hole of light and use the knocking test for the joists, or make little holes either side of light template etc? (Assuming you dont have a stud detector)

Also had a query. For example, downstairs living room had just an existing ceiling rose and no downlights, but with intention of installing them. If the ceiling rose wasnt being changed into a downlight, would you take out and replace with junction box and have underfloor upstairs with a connector block or mini sealed connection? Understand if it was a connector block it would have to be accessible, but wasnt sure if this can be classed as accessible if you could (with work of taking floorboards off). I remember my old house the old lighting circuit was wired using junction boxes, and this was located in loft (easily accesible) and under first floor flooring. Thanks