Downstairs toilet/cloakroom upgrade

[spiidey]

We're looking to give our downstairs cloakroom an upgrade/makeover.

The existing sink will be removed as it never had a pedestal and will be replaced with a new one. We'll also get the toilet taken off and possibly replace with a new one (missus hasn't decided). Both of these will be done by a plumber. The new sink/toilet will also be installed by a plumber.

We're taking the plasterboard walls and ceiling off as well so we can install insulation between the partitions / above the ceiling.

We'll then add insulation between the studs and above the ceiling (there is none at the moment), and put up fresh plasterboard.
We're also tiling the wall to about 3 or 4 feet high on all 4 walls of the room, with a mirror cut to size from the top of the tiling to the ceiling, the mirror going on the wall on the left of the pic below and also onthe wall with the diagonal/slope where the stairwell cuts in).

Some Q's:-

1. For the sink, where the attachments to hold it to the wall will go, do we need to put wooden battens between the timber studs (prior to re sheeting the plasterboard and doing the tiling) so that the screws to hold the sink will be screwed into both tile and wood? Or would we be ok with wall anchors only?

2. Given that this room will have both a toilet and sink, what kind of acoustic mineral wool can be used / is suitable for use between the studs? Can we use high acoustic rated wool and if so is there a particular type that must be used in rooms with high humidity?

3. What type of plasterboard can be used? We'd prefer to use an acoustic type of plasterboard if possible, but again are we restricted due to the humidity levels in the room?

4. The walls at the moment don't have any tiling on them, neither behind where the existing sink is nor behind the existing toilet. We'll be installing tiling behind both the new sink and the new toilet, and in addition potentially thicker sheets of plasterboard, all of which will mean the new sink/toilet will be positioned slightly further into the room than they were before (and so farther away from the existing pipework than the existing sink/toilet are). Is it then a fairly straightforward job for the plumber to attach the new sink/toilet to the existing pipework, or are there issues caused by the new toilet /sink being further away from these connections than the old toilet/sink were?

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

1) Yes it would be wise to install a rigid timber noggin to help support the basin.
2) Most thermal insulation will offer acoustic resistance, I am a big fan or knauf earth wool for use in insulating walls and ceilings. As the room will give off condensation/moisture, it would be wise to install a check barrier between plasterboard and stud/partition wall.
3) If your preference is to reduce noise levels between rooms, then soundbloc boards would be my choice.
4) With regards to alteration of pipework/waste/soil. Generally there will be some minor work concerned if the room size changes, but normally any change of a basin and toilet would nearly always require some pipework modification/alteration. So nothing unusual or anything worth loosing sleep over.

 

[spiidey]

1) Yes it would be wise to install a rigid timber noggin to help support the basin.

Thanks.

2) Most thermal insulation will offer acoustic resistance, I am a big fan or knauf earth wool for use in insulating walls and ceilings. As the room will give off condensation/moisture, it would be wise to install a check barrier between plasterboard and stud/partition wall.

What kind of product is the "check barrier"? Would you be able to provide a web link?

3) If your preference is to reduce noise levels between rooms, then soundbloc boards would be my choice.

Thanks, had a look online and gyproc soundbloc moisture resistant boards look like they'll do the job.

4) With regards to alteration of pipework/waste/soil. Generally there will be some minor work concerned if the room size changes, but normally any change of a basin and toilet would nearly always require some pipework modification/alteration. So nothing unusual or anything worth loosing sleep over.

Thanks. So the plumber will keep us right!!

When is it best to get the plumber in to install the new basin (which is probably going to be a corner "vanity" unit) - before or after re sheeting, before/after tiling?

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

A vapour check barrier is simply a plastic sheet fitted to the stud work before boarding, Visqueen will do the job.
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=v...rome..69i57.6662j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
It would be wise to have the plumber in first, to access if any work is required on the pipework prior to wall and tiling be fitted.
Then whatever needs altering can be altered accordingly.
Then it is really personal choice regarding the tiling. If the walls are to tiled top to bottom/bottom to middle, tile before basin and WC are installed, if not and only a splash back is required for basin, then fit basin and WC before tiling.

 

[spiidey]

A vapour check barrier is simply a plastic sheet fitted to the stud work before boarding, Visqueen will do the job.
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=v...rome..69i57.6662j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
It would be wise to have the plumber in first, to access if any work is required on the pipework prior to wall and tiling be fitted.
Then whatever needs altering can be altered accordingly.
Then it is really personal choice regarding the tiling. If the walls are to tiled top to bottom/bottom to middle, tile before basin and WC are installed, if not and only a splash back is required for basin, then fit basin and WC before tiling.

Thank you again.

Is it possible to buy the product shown in the attached picture (or similar "corner vanity unit" product), without the wash basin (and/or the tap) itself?

The missus wants a different color of marble wash basin to that shown in the attached picture (and the other choices for wash basin on the website), but we're not willing to pay for two wash basins.

Also, if we can buy the wooden unit and the wash basin/tap separately, are there any compatibility issues? Or are the standard sink drain holes / tap holes in all vanity units the same size?

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

There are whole host of combinations of corn vanities and basins.
There will would not normally be a issue with compatibility with tap and basin designs, but it would be wise to always double check.
A simple google search will show you the variety of units and basins available, https://www.google.co.uk/webhp?sour...on=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=corner+vanity&tbm=shop
Most on-line shops will have an on-line chat line, where they should be able to guide you in the right direction of compatible components.

 

[spiidey]

A vapour check barrier is simply a plastic sheet fitted to the stud work before boarding, Visqueen will do the job.
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=v...rome..69i57.6662j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
It would be wise to have the plumber in first, to access if any work is required on the pipework prior to wall and tiling be fitted.
Then whatever needs altering can be altered accordingly.
Then it is really personal choice regarding the tiling. If the walls are to tiled top to bottom/bottom to middle, tile before basin and WC are installed, if not and only a splash back is required for basin, then fit basin and WC before tiling.

Apologies for revisiting this post.

For the visqueen barrier, is it simply the bog standard "visqueen vapour check" (see attached picture) we need, or one of the other (higher performing) products on the link you provided?

Would something similar from screw fix (link below) do the same job?

http://www.screwfix.com/p/vapour-ba...Y7vvyUqACYAczkiL4Bu1HygScn-XhXkELQaAizj8P8HAQ

Finally, how do we actually install the product, I know it will be applied after fitting the insulation in between the studs but before re sheeting the plasterboard, but what is it actually applied with (jointing tape? if so what kind), how and where is the jointing tape applied (is the tape double sides and the back of the tape applied to the studs, or is it screwed to the studs) and is the barrier to be flush with the floor/ceiling and/or glued screwed to the floor/ ceiling?