Drilling into marble tiles
- Thread starter Deansplit
- Start date
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Use a diamond drill bit. up to about 8mm a solid type bit and 10mm and above a core bit.
e.g. for 6mm
https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-diamond-tile-drill-bit-6-x-67mm/51908
e.g. for 6mm
https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-diamond-tile-drill-bit-6-x-67mm/51908
Also consider using a template. As you are using a diamond hole saw their is no centre pilot to stop it bouncing all over the tile.
I normally use thin ply, drill a hole in it, the same size as the diamond drill bit. Make the ply large enough to be able to hold against the wall without slipping. Once the hole in the tile is a few mm deep, you can remove the template and continue drilling.
If you are using a very large hole saw (eg for an extractor fan), you can use a scrap of plasterboard.
In general, the cheaper the bit the fewer holes it will drill. One major annoyance with small diameter core bits is that they get clogged with the core from the hole. Most have a tiny hole at the top which you can insert an round nail into with a view to pushing the core through the bottom.
You may need someone to spray water on to the bit as you drill to prevent overheating, that said, marble is "fairly" soft.
I normally use thin ply, drill a hole in it, the same size as the diamond drill bit. Make the ply large enough to be able to hold against the wall without slipping. Once the hole in the tile is a few mm deep, you can remove the template and continue drilling.
If you are using a very large hole saw (eg for an extractor fan), you can use a scrap of plasterboard.
In general, the cheaper the bit the fewer holes it will drill. One major annoyance with small diameter core bits is that they get clogged with the core from the hole. Most have a tiny hole at the top which you can insert an round nail into with a view to pushing the core through the bottom.
You may need someone to spray water on to the bit as you drill to prevent overheating, that said, marble is "fairly" soft.
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Marcrist make very good bits, they are however designed to drill lots of holes and probably work out cheaper per cut, hence the significantly higher purchase price but only you can determine how many holes you need to make.
If you were a pro tiler, I'd say go for it. If you are DIYing ( and potentially using the wrong speed and lack of lubricants) I would suggest that you look at the cheaper end of the market (not as far as the budget end though).
If you were a pro tiler, I'd say go for it. If you are DIYing ( and potentially using the wrong speed and lack of lubricants) I would suggest that you look at the cheaper end of the market (not as far as the budget end though).
They are the only ones I use as they doo last longer. The hole in some ply is a good idea except it blanks off the tile so it is hard to be sure it is on target and even a little out is often too much. I use wide masking tape to mark out the hole with a big pencil cross on it. then start the drill off at 45 degrees to get it started and slowly bring the drill perpendicular. If you need a lot of holes, invest in a guide it has a large suction cup and a series of holes to keep the drill on target all the way. Remove the guide once you are into the tile.
Only use the diamod drill on the tile, once through it change to a regular masonary bit.
Agreed the ply does obscure the hole, especially if it is a small diameter.
I tend to make reference lines on the board and tile so that I can align it correctly.
I don't have enough confidence to accurately drill hard surfaces such as porcelain using the 45 degree technique. I have tried and it wandered off slightly. I wasn't using Marcrist though. Perhaps I should invest in better bits...
I tend to make reference lines on the board and tile so that I can align it correctly.
I don't have enough confidence to accurately drill hard surfaces such as porcelain using the 45 degree technique. I have tried and it wandered off slightly. I wasn't using Marcrist though. Perhaps I should invest in better bits...
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