And the bits fly everywhere, and will probably rust in a bathroom. Could make a right mess.
Drilling pilot holes in bolts for removal
- Thread starter JBR
- Start date
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And if the screw heads have been cammed out that much it would point to the previous owner already having tried to change the handle and he found the screw has rusted into the locking mechanism, even if you drill the heads off the screws to remove you may find the stub of the screw is that seized it will probably snap and leave a bit in the mech, quite common to find rusty screws/mechanisms in bathrooms
That's exactly what I've done!
I drilled off the screw heads which I thought would then release the handle assembly. No chance! I had to prise it off and found that the handle separated from the spindle! So the spindle is still there, as are the screw bolts (minus their heads). I opened the window and went outside to try to remove the locking bar from the edge of the window. No, obviously held in place by the spindle and bolts.
At that point, I gave up and called in a professional, as I fully expected to have to replace the fanlights.
Bad news: they don't make the same profile and thickness any more, so new ones won't fit. He suggested that I spray WD40 and leave it over the weekend. If the spindle and bolts can be removed, he can easily replace the mechanism and handles.
We're away tomorrow and Monday but when we return I'll try to remove the spindle. Perhaps if I give it a clout first with a hammer it might release it! As for the bolts, I thought the best I could do would be to cut a slot in the faces and try to unscrew them that way (after giving them a clout with a hammer too!).
If I can't do anything, I'll see what the window fitter says. I realise that if the worst comes to the worst it may involve replacing the whole window, but that will get a bit expensive.
You could try carefully heating the screw, this would cause it to expand a little and force the hole it is in to also expand. Then when it cools and returns to original size it may be loose enough to turn. I have seen freezer spray used to cool and thus shrink a jammed bolt enough to release it.
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The way to heat it is to heat something else and then apply that to the piece of bolt. A piece of bar or something. Also WD40 is great all round stuff to carry around, but there are better penetrating oils. Try Plus Gas or similar "proper" penetrating oil.
If you ever need to drill out a screw, get a left-handed drill. Often the heat, vibration and torque will actually loosen the screw and wind it out. If not, you were going to drill it anyway.
Best not to do it freehand if it can be avoided, use at least a vice or clamp and preferably a drill press or similar. Then you have a chance of saving the thread and not snapping the drill.
Best not to do it freehand if it can be avoided, use at least a vice or clamp and preferably a drill press or similar. Then you have a chance of saving the thread and not snapping the drill.
Thanks. As long as I can get everything out, bolts, spindle and locking mechanism, I'm not bothered about damaging the thread. I really want to replace the lot (except the window frame and glazing).
get the remainder of the screw out by drilling and then just refit new handles with these screws, done it before and it works a treat
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=s...ved=0CAYQ_AUoAWoVChMI0ailtaKJyAIVRV4aCh3fRAgT
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=s...ved=0CAYQ_AUoAWoVChMI0ailtaKJyAIVRV4aCh3fRAgT
Anything, but as you say you'll need to be careful not to melt the frame. Sometimes, if you can get a thread hot, and then put on something like plus gas it seems to suck it in.
To be honest, if you have thread to grip, I'm surprised they won't just come out with a pair of mole grips.
Otherwise it's the drill as others have said.
I'm afraid this has now got beyond my capabilities. I asked a window repairer/fitter to have a look and he came this evening. Despite easing oil and various types of pliers, etc, the bolts and the spindle cannot be removed. The bolts are not accessible from the inside of the window for mole wrench or similar, as they are not proud of the surface at all.
He has suggested he come back tomorrow or Thursday when he has more time and he'll drill out some rivets on the strip on the window edge so that he can remove it and access the internal workings from that aspect. He's pretty confident that he'll be able to remove all the seized up internals one way or another and, if so, replacing them with all new locking components will be fairly easy.
He's a Which? recommended tradesman, and a neighbour has also used his services recently.
He has suggested he come back tomorrow or Thursday when he has more time and he'll drill out some rivets on the strip on the window edge so that he can remove it and access the internal workings from that aspect. He's pretty confident that he'll be able to remove all the seized up internals one way or another and, if so, replacing them with all new locking components will be fairly easy.
He's a Which? recommended tradesman, and a neighbour has also used his services recently.
Just for the sake of completeness, this gentleman has been again today and successfully removed both complete locking mechanisms. Everything was seized up completely due to many years of water ingress. New locking mechanisms were installed and the windows now work faultlessly. Apparently, the water ingress was due to poor design of the (quite old) windows and, although there are drain holes, his recommendation was to remove the handles periodically and squirt some WD40 into the holes.
That would point to the slot for the gearbox being routered out to deep and has blown through into the glazing channel, any water either drains out through the slots OR drips into the gearbox eventually seizing it up
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