Drip groove for windows

[opps]

Hi all

My customers have 20(?) years old casement windows. 6 are side hung, 2 are top hung.

After epoxy splicing timber in as required, I want to run a drip channel all around the opening sashes. Is top, left/right plus bottom overkill? or would you just do the bottom? If it isn't overkill, what happens when you meet the hinges? The drip channels will run in to the hinges, assuming that my groove is about 10mm back from the exterior face.

I will be removing all of the window "stops" (not sure what the correct term is- think of door stops) so that I can put new brush piles in the carriers. Looking at the stops, I can see water stains where the left and right verticals meet the bottom horizontal stops. I guess that is the result of "driving rain" but I don't want it to happen again.

I used to work for a guy who used to restore sliding sash windows, but I admit that I am not that familiar with trying to increase the longevity of modern force grown softwood windows.

Sensible advice will be much appreciated, thanks.

 

[Diver Fred]

Hi all

My customers have 20(?) years old casement windows. 6 are side hung, 2 are top hung.

After epoxy splicing timber in as required, I want to run a drip channel all around the opening sashes. Is top, left/right plus bottom overkill? or would you just do the bottom? If it isn't overkill, what happens when you meet the hinges? The drip channels will run in to the hinges, assuming that my groove is about 10mm back from the exterior face.

I will be removing all of the window "stops" (not sure what the correct term is- think of door stops) so that I can put new brush piles in the carriers. Looking at the stops, I can see water stains where the left and right verticals meet the bottom horizontal stops. I guess that is the result of "driving rain" but I don't want it to happen again.

I used to work for a guy who used to restore sliding sash windows, but I admit that I am not that familiar with trying to increase the longevity of modern force grown softwood windows.

Sensible advice will be much appreciated, thanks.

I'd have thought that the 'Drip' channel would be existing and do as that. 10mm back from the face seems a lot - I'd be going for 5/16th Inch (7mm) with 1/4inch grove, 1/4 inch deep max. All the lights I've fitted the drip channel abuts the butt hinge edge - that is that the light timber finishes inch&3/4 deep.

The stops - 'Jambs' should not be 'planted' but rabbited out in the casement.

By the way I know the hinged (or not as the case maybe) frame that holds the glass in a casement windows as 'Lights', 'Sashes' as the complete window where the glass holding frame slides either vertical or horizontal. That is what I was taught by my master.

 

[opps]

I'd have thought that the 'Drip' channel would be existing and do as that. 10mm back from the face seems a lot - I'd be going for 5/16th Inch (7mm) with 1/4inch grove, 1/4 inch deep max. All the lights I've fitted the drip channel abuts the butt hinge edge - that is that the light timber finishes inch&3/4 deep.

The stops - 'Jambs' should not be 'planted' but rabbited out in the casement.

By the way I know the hinged (or not as the case maybe) frame that holds the glass in a casement windows as 'Lights', 'Sashes' as the complete window where the glass holding frame slides either vertical or horizontal. That is what I was taught by my master.

Thanks, I will go for 7mm. At the moment there are no drip channels.

The windows are about 1.6m tall. Excluding the interior glass retaining mouldings (on the inner face) the stiles are about 40mm by about 50mm deep (off the top of my head- I am not on site today).

I get what you are saying about the stops, but nah, they are nailed on.

Thanks for the clarification regarding lights and sashes... and thank for the advice, much appreciated.