Dripping bath mixer tap despite replacing both valves

[iluvyoulongtime]

My bathroom has been designed by a genius with the bath and taps completely tiled in and inaccessible. I've had a slow leak on the bath's mixer tap for a while so have finally got around to replacing the valves which are quarter turn ones like this; https://www.amazon.co.uk/Replacemen...3IHM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1312318600&sr=8-2

Now to change the valves I had to wait for Thames Water to replace my outside stopcock as I am in a conversion flat with no internal stopcock (I've had a plumber look for this and we only found one that turns off the taps, not that bath or shower).

Anyway, all replaced and tightly done up, but now the leak is actually faster than before. As I cannot get to any of the plumbing leading into the tap I cannot tell what the hell is causing this. The sink in the kitchen has also started gurgling every 10 or so seconds. Any reason to think I've opened the street stopcock too much and increased the pressure above what it was, or is this not really possible?

Any ideas would be amazing as this is about 6 weeks in now and driving me mad!

Thanks,
Julius

 

[ChrisOxford]

Where exactly is the leak from? The bath mixer tap's spout?

If so, then not having access to the tap's plumbing is no disaster (other than difficulty in isolation) as your problem must surely be with the replacement valves (faulty/unsuitable/not installed correctly).

C.

 

[iluvyoulongtime]

You may very well be right.

So to attempt to reverse the faster leak I'd created I stopped the water again and replaced the original (and I presumed, leaking) valve and tightened everything back up. Water on and the leak is probably even slower than it was before.

And yes, the leak is from the end of the spout. However, it's still there and my current situation is;

Hot tap: valve replaced with new valve
Cold tap: original valve

Can you point me in the right direction for working out what is to blame? I still have the original hot tap valve by the way.

Thanks mate. This is driving me a bit mad as I'm just assuming it should be simple.

 

[ChrisOxford]

Can you point me in the right direction for working out what is to blame?

Sorry, I know virtually nothing about 1/4 turn valves - all my taps are ancient! But someone here will, I'm sure.

But if I had to guess, I'd say that the seal on the bottom of the new valves isn't sealing properly against the part of the tap where the water emerges, allowing water to seep up and bypass the valve even when it's in the off position. Is the 24mm measurement in the Amazon diagram the same as the originals?

Good luck.

 

[iluvyoulongtime]

No problem, thanks for your replies Chris

 

[seco services]

Have you checked the brass seat in the mixer that the valve sits on.
If you look at the base of the valve will be a rubber seal thats sits on the
brass seat at the base of mixer if this is scaled or pitted it will not seal properly.

 

[iluvyoulongtime]

The only rubber seal is a black rubber ring that sits at the base of the thread, i.e. Nearest to the end the tap slots on to. Do you mean the other end where the ceramic disc sticks out a tiny bit?

Was reading this [url]http://www.leakingtaps.co.uk/[/url] and they talk about scratched to the ceramic disc causing problems, but nothing about a seal? To be clear are you talking about the seal between the valve and the threaded pipe it screws into?

Thanks very much for taking the time to reply. Will fix this even if it destroyed the rest of the bathroom.

 

[ChrisOxford]

Do you mean the other end where the ceramic disc sticks out a tiny bit?

This part should seal against the brass "seat" in the tap - is it slightly squishy? It's the blue thing in this pic: http://www.heatandplumb.com/images/taps/main_product_HP1157QC.jpg

Could you post a picture of the underside of the valves?

As Seco says, check the seat's in good condition. Shine a torch down into the holes in the tap where the valves fit, you should see a ring of metal with a hole in the middle. This is the seat. It needn't be shiny, but must be smooth.

 

[iluvyoulongtime]

Understood. I will check this evening and take a load of interesting photos of bits of plumbery.

So it's sounding like the base of the valve, or the pipe into which it screws, is worn/dirty and that's the cause of the leak.

In other news does anyone want to buy a pair of only slightly used 1/4 turn tap valves? They're brand spanking new and only slightly damaged after they pulled on my last thread of sanity by leaking more than the old ones.

 

[iluvyoulongtime]

Shine a torch down into the holes in the tap where the valves fit, you should see a ring of metal with a hole in the middle. This is the seat. It needn't be shiny, but must be smooth.

Excellent - this I will do and report back.

 

[ChrisOxford]

So it's sounding like the base of the valve, or the pipe into which it screws, is worn/dirty and that's the cause of the leak.

The way the bottom of the valve seals against the bottom of the hole into which it screws.

The black rubber O-ring at the top of the valves is merely to stop water dripping out from the top of the valves, and will have no bearing on whether or not water drips from the spout.

Keep trying, you'll get there in the end.

 

[iluvyoulongtime]

Right ok, perfect. Thanks again - you've both been very helpful.

 

[joe-90]

Can you get a valve reseating tool down there? If you can, when you turn it a couple of times and look back down you'll see a clear track that the water is travelling along. Just like a mini Grand Canyon - just the same principal.

 

[iluvyoulongtime]

I will check the seat and base of the valve tonight, but in anticipation of a knackered seat I've just ordered a valve reseating tool (8 quid delivered). This tap will not beat me.

B*stard thing.

 

[joe-90]

That's the attitude kid,

"We'll fight them on the beaches......


...we will never surrender."