driveway block paving questions

[Deano3]

Hi everyone hope this is in correct section, I am thinking about getting my drive way done , I currently is partially block paved but I am thinking I may get it re-done and get the full lot done as the soil is very damp were I live as clay underneath and grass is covered in worm casts + wife just passed test so could do with larger drive.

I have been looking on check a trade and some of the company's say they use

All our paving is set on a solid non sinking concrete base (the same concrete they build houses on) if it can hold your house up it can hold your car.

so is a concrete base or a sand base better ? I didn't know anyone used concrete for block paving on driveway and if they do are you able to lift the blocks if needed for ay reason or do the paves stick to the concrete as I imagine ?

also I read that clay pavers are better as hold colour etc is this the case ?

any help if appreciated
thanks Dean

 

[lonner]

Hi, most reputable Driveway installers would use a type 1 MOT stone base and this would be around 200 mm in depth for a domestic driveway.

A concrete base is a none porous base and may cause a few problems ? I say may do.
If your ground is very bad then this " raft approach " may be the answer.

Cost wise its a big extra cost.
So id be looking at 300 mm construction with 60 mm paving blocks.
Cost as a rough estimate £45-£75 per m2
Clay paving blocks do look nice and seem to resist grime better.
Paving doesnt really fade it just weather's ,ie dirt and moss litchen ect.

You will need a soakaway and drains if the drive will shed water to the road or neighbours land, this should be discussed with the contractor.

Do your homework with contractors, there's an awful lot of dodgy traders.
Check websites carefully and do not pay Cash..
Time spent researching the trader will pay dividends as you will get a quality drive and not a load of greif with a big bill.

Good luck with your research.

 

[Deano3]

Hi, most reputable Driveway installers would use a type 1 MOT stone base and this would be around 200 mm in depth for a domestic driveway.

A concrete base is a none porous base and may cause a few problems ? I say may do.
If your ground is very bad then this " raft approach " may be the answer.

Cost wise its a big extra cost.
So id be looking at 300 mm construction with 60 mm paving blocks.
Cost as a rough estimate £45-£75 per m2
Clay paving blocks do look nice and seem to resist grime better.
Paving doesnt really fade it just weather's ,ie dirt and moss litchen ect.

You will need a soakaway and drains if the drive will shed water to the road or neighbours land, this should be discussed with the contractor.

Do your homework with contractors, there's an awful lot of dodgy traders.
Check websites carefully and do not pay Cash..
Time spent researching the trader will pay dividends as you will get a quality drive and not a load of greif with a big bill.

Good luck with your research.

Thanks for that information, what do you mean when you say cost wise its a big extra cost ? You mean concrete base or stone base ?

So i would like to have clay pavers i will have to start emailing some companys asking questions like how deep do you excavate and what base do you use etc.

So what would you say is the best base concrete or stone then sand ?

Do you think after the concrete they would add the sharp sand then the pavers ? And also i will need drains fotting your correct.

Thanks dean

 

[Ian H]

I’d prefer a stone base. I’d say 99% are on a stone base, ones on concrete are rare.

Unless by concrete they do mean putting a bit of cement in with the sharp sand?

 

[EddieM]

Note the following https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/permeable-surfacing-of-front-gardens-guidance

 

[Deano3]

I’d prefer a stone base. I’d say 99% are on a stone base, ones on concrete are rare.

Unless by concrete they do mean putting a bit of cement in with the sharp sand?

on the video on chekatrade they have it just looks like dry mix they whack down then eventually it must turn hard once water gets in there but if ever need to be under for any reason I suppose would be a nightmare, how would I find out about the cable underneath and how deep etc ? also clay pavers are way forward over concrete or if sealed regularly are concrete fine ?

Thanks Dean

 

[Ian H]

I’d have concrete or clay and would do a small careful dig onto the cable.

A weak mix would break easy enough if you ever had to dig it up.

 

[Deano3]

I’d have concrete or clay and would do a small careful dig onto the cable.

A weak mix would break easy enough if you ever had to dig it up.

Some people say they would usually have stone base, think i will ask them in a dry mix etc

 

[Ian H]

You would still have stone (MOT) under the dry mix so you would have something like:

60mm block
50mm sand or sand cement mix
200mm stone

 

[lonner]

Your talking about " lean mix concrete" this is about a 10:1 mix of sand gravel and cement.
Its laid damp and rolled or wakker plated.
It sets very hard but not as hard as wet mix concrete.
You would normally put ducting in for cables ect when laying a base under paving.
Saves a lot of future expense.
You would have 150mm dry lean mix on 50-100 mm of hardcore.
Or 200 mm dry lean mix on a porous membrane. If the ground is a bit spongy, tho id still want hardcore as the more base the better with poor ground.
You will normally have a membrane anyway ..minimal cost per m2

You can mix cement with the screed But it must not be the base and bed.
You can do this in a lawn but Not when its load bearing.

If you talk to a good paving company you will be in no doubt as to whats needed.
If you get a waffling toss pot you will also see what a crap paving company is like.

Get several quotes and dont just fall for a salesman and his promises.

As i said do your homework and the right tradesman will work on your property.

A good firm will not be starting tomorrow!!
Im retired from paving now after 30 years, my waiting time was usually at least 4 weeks and upto 2 months in spring summer..

 

[Deano3]

Your talking about " lean mix concrete" this is about a 10:1 mix of sand gravel and cement.
Its laid damp and rolled or wakker plated.
It sets very hard but not as hard as wet mix concrete.
You would normally put ducting in for cables ect when laying a base under paving.
Saves a lot of future expense.
You would have 150mm dry lean mix on 50-100 mm of hardcore.
Or 200 mm dry lean mix on a porous membrane. If the ground is a bit spongy, tho id still want hardcore as the more base the better with poor ground.
You will normally have a membrane anyway ..minimal cost per m2

You can mix cement with the screed But it must not be the base and bed.
You can do this in a lawn but Not when its load bearing.

If you talk to a good paving company you will be in no doubt as to whats needed.
If you get a waffling toss pot you will also see what a crap paving company is like.

Get several quotes and dont just fall for a salesman and his promises.

As i said do your homework and the right tradesman will work on your property.

A good firm will not be starting tomorrow!!
Im retired from paving now after 30 years, my waiting time was usually at least 4 weeks and upto 2 months in spring summer..

thanks for all that information, I have emailed 3 local company's with good reviews and going to start getting quotes.

are clay pavers worth the extra as they hold there colour or if concrete pavers are sealed will that make them hold there colour ?

and one company sent me back this
"We excavate 230mm deep to ensure the sub-base is sufficient for any traffic. The hardcore gets compacted in 4” layers to make sure the rite compaction is achieved. " is that deep enough ?

thanks again for all the help everyone
Dean

 

[lonner]

thanks for all that information, I have emailed 3 local company's with good reviews and going to start getting quotes.

are clay pavers worth the extra as they hold there colour or if concrete pavers are sealed will that make them hold there colour ?

and one company sent me back this
"We excavate 230mm deep to ensure the sub-base is sufficient for any traffic. The hardcore gets compacted in 4” layers to make sure the rite compaction is achieved. " is that deep enough ?

thanks again for all the help everyone
Dean

If what it stands on is solid then it should be fine for light use.
Cars vans ect.

Talk to the contractor about the various types of paving.
I loved Woburn Rumbled paving which is a 3 size cobble style pressed concrete block.
Joint sealer works fine, upto you if you coat the whole lot.
I personally dont like resin coats.

To be honest pick the one the wife likes, happy wife happy life...

 

[endecotp]

For everything you could ever want to know about paving and more:

http://www.pavingexpert.com/blocks.htm

 

[lonner]

For everything you could ever want to know about paving and more:

http://www.pavingexpert.com/blocks.htm

Its informative but its a company's advertising blerb, with very high rates.
Its prices are about 20- 30% higher than what most would consider a fair price.

But its a good place for info

 

[Deano3]

Had first estimate today and came in at £5100 i got in touch saying i wanted to spend closer to 4k and they got back in touch with £4500 and thats quite a large company.

I have got in touch with few others and say what they come back with, the thing i like about large company is they have a large roller rather than just a hand push wacker.

Most companys seem to dig 250mm i have one last question is getting driveway sealed after a few months as good as clay pavers and will they hold colour for years and years to come like clay pavers ?

Thanks dean