Dry bonding out

[mickbob]

Hi Just practicing building a roughly 3x2 metre shed using cavity wall construction, I'll be using practice mortar once I've figured out the bond so it's not a permanent structure. I'm finding it really difficult to dry bond out the inner leaf block work with outer leaf brick work such that the the ends are flush allowing a cavity closure to sit on the end and then the door frame. Any ideas where I'm going wrong with the dry bonding no matter what I try it seems to just be out by a wee bit. The cavity space is 100mm and I'm alternating 100mm blocks on the block corners. Any advice about how to go about doing this correctly is much appreciated.

 

[mickbob]

Anyone got any books or links explaining block work bonds used in the uk? Brickwork too, but mainly on when to use half bats and 3/4 bricks etc in stretcher bond not how to do english or quetta bond etc. Figuring out the correct bond work for stretcher is hard enough, it's a right royal pain.

 

[stuart45]

Just cut the blocks when you get to the frame jambs.

 

[jeds]

I'm curious as to why a cavity construction for such a small shed. You also say 'roughly' 2x3m. Why not just make it work blocks?

 

[mickbob]

Jeds, I'm a novice at bricklaying, I can do a decent stretcher bond garden wall with piers and corner returns etc I'm trying to take that up a level to doing cavity walls, which I can do when its just a straight wall or a single simple corner return, I 'm taking that a step up to doing a shed type build using practice mortar so once I've practiced I'll take it down. It's just a way to learn how to do a four sided cavity building, it won't actually be used as a shed, it won't even have a roof.

Thanks for the advice Stuart I suppose cutting the inner leaf blocks makes more sense than faffing about with the outer leaf bricks, leading to a more pleasing appearance.

 

[stuart45]

Ideally the face work is set out to the frames first and then the blockwork is put up to match it.