Dry Verge OK to be fitted over existing render/undercloak?

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I know this topic is done to death! BUT, I have read many posts on the Dry Verge topic and render / undercloak, and haven't found a definitive answer. Also i am an amateur and not doing this myself.

I am looking at a dry verge system fitted in replacement to crumbling render and undercloak.

I have read on some sites (and here too), that for the job to be done 'right' the render and undercloak must be removed, a batten placed and the dry verge mounted.

I have contacted a well regarded roofing firm (Belfast area) and they have advised that 'their' dry verge method does NOT remove old render and undercloak but to box it in, and because their dry verge will be flush up to the existing render it will not result in the existing render crumbling further and falling off into the dry verge box section. The quote is £360 for one edge of roof, a pitched roof porch , and 3 dormers. I don't mind paying more if there is a better way that it should be done, although i don't know yet who else locally would do it better/ differently.

Is this just a short cut, or are there scenarios where this flush fitting over the existing render is actually perfectly fine? I know there are different dry verge products, so are some intended to be done this way and others must have the old render removed?

The guy didn't lie about how they would do it, he was simply matter of fact that this way was fine, and would work well. Stating that if the render were to be all removed before, it would involve the edge tiles being removed and replaced, and it would add unnecessary cost.
 
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Well , the dry verge has not been decided upon by me yet, and any pictures from the company are of work completed. I attach some of those. I mean it 'looks' ok, but my question was is it right to just put the verge on over the cracked render and undercloak?
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Personally I think dry verge is shyte and it smells of cowboys. We get asked for it and we say we don’t do it. I’m sure a few on here will disagree with me that’s fine. The word ‘dry’ in dry verge means no mortar, so new build only where they make sure the existing breathable membrane goes all the way to the edge of the asbestolux and the laths are extended the same and cut nice and square to allow the dry verge to be screwed to it. Even the single dry verge caps on new builds still allow a little water seepage in windy rain scenarios.
Sticking or screwing dry verge to an existing crumbling mortared verge is like having a layer of nice new black tarmac over your existing drive. Looks good when you pay.
The caps go off colour after about 5 years and a very strong storm can rip them off.
The dry verge on that picture is the linear (or continuous) dry verge. I do prefer the look of this than the caps and they work well on those modern tiles. However I’m still not a fan and it’s just my opinion. You can’t beat a nice new wet verge done properly by a proper roofer using the right sand cement combo after raking out all the old. Will last 20 years+

What kind of roof tiles do you have?
 
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Update - I just found the below thread from 2013 (See below); where it seems that there IS a possible solution that excludes the need for mortar removal.. so perhaps it depends on the 'system' used rather than the just the roofer making their life easier.. ??

"Wondered if anyone had experience of the Elite / Harcon type of Retrofit dry verge units ?

They would seem a simple solution v knocking out all the mortar etc ?


http://www.roofingsuperstore.co.uk/...y-verge/corovent-dvs-dry-verge-retro-fit.html

ricky101, 14 Oct 2013 Report Bookmark
 
Hi MW Roofline, thanks for reply....

Anyway my tiles are flat and possibly of concrete (this is my first home so i am unfamiliar with specifics i'm afraid). They are not ridged or slate in any case.

The biggest query i have is, is dry verge mostly unloved due to its appearance, and its association with bodgers making a quick buck (the contractors i contacted are 25yrs established and there are many photos of work being regularly posted). , or does it have actual inherent problems when used in a retrofit scenario?

If there are problems are they mostly down due to WHO or HOW it is installed, or is dry verge just lining myself up for trouble? I appreciate wet verge is 'better' looking ( and presume more expensive - no quotes yet) , but what if any is the actual detriment to the house by installing continuous verge as per this company ?

My main gripe at this moment with the dry verge information i received from the local contractor, was that they DO NOT remove the old mortar and undercloak. They simply dry verge over the existing material, and because they fit it flush to there will be nowhere for the remaining mortar to crumble into.. This seems contrary to most of what i have read about fitting dry verge, but if this scenario for NOT removing mortar is commonplace, efficient and correct then this might make me more happy they aren't just making it easy for them to do.
 
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but if this scenario for NOT removing mortar is commonplace, efficient and correct

I would strip all the existing verge off and redo with a dry system. Anything else won't last long.
 
Ok, cool. Getting the vibe that either dry or wet, the old crap should be out first. Have another guy out tomo to discuss..... At least I have learnt more from being on here about what to be asking!
 
Yet to get the ££ quote, but another guy has called out. He will remove tiles, scrape out old mortar and undersheet, Lengthen battens out to tile edge, and put individual Manthorpe dry edge units on. Sounded more thorough than the other guy, and seems like it would result in a satisfactory job... The guy (who by the way can do either cementing and dry verge work - depending on what the customer want) suggested the dry verge would be his opinion better due to longevity..
 

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