Dryline or Tanking ?

[Yanni]

Untitled

• Yanni
• 30 Dec 2008
• 1

This is the third property I will be doing on the same street, is a 1906 end terraced. This wall in the photo is an external wall and most of the plaster has fallen off and it is damp due to the external wall having been collapsed sometime a couple of years ago.

After re-pointing the external walls, what is better and perhaps more economical to do ? Screw studs on the bare wall and then screw plasterboard on them with insulation underneath or tanking the walls as they do in the basements( Paint SBR & cement mix and then sharp sand and cement screed before plastering ? )

If I go for drylining( studs and plasterboard - no plasterboard adhesive ), do you screw the studs straight to the wall or you use some screed underneath the studs to level them as the walls are preety curved ! .

All the walls are solid brick, there is no cavity.

Thanks...

 

[jackplane]

I'm no expert but if the damp was only due to the wall collapsing, which you say has been repaired, and there is no inherent damp in the property there seems to be no point in tanking.

If there is a problem of damp peneteation still after your remidial work then you need to ascertain the cause of the damp before deciding the best course of action.

Try visiting

http://www.askjeff.co.uk/rising_damp.html

 

[Yanni]

The wall is still damp. It was the upper part of the external wall that collapsed and was put back together. However the lower part has not been touched and I inspected the outside wall needs some pointing doing to it as there is moss growing in between the bricks !

I want to rent the property asap as I have a shark type of mortgage that I can no longer afford. If I don't tank it, it will take at least two months to dry out which means an extra £800 wasted.

Would i get away with the dry lining option ?

 

[jackplane]

I appreciate what you are saying but you really need to identify the cause of the damp. Have you identified a damp proof course,? In a property of that age there may not be a DPC present, it could be slate, lead or even copper. If you do identify a DPC then you need to make sure that the ground level outside is at least 150mm below the DPC. If there is not one present then you would do well to lower the ground externally below the FFL.
Is the cause definatly from the ground? You seem to suggest that it is...Have you checked all other options Guttering for example.

As I said I'm no expert but in my experience tanking should be used in addition with other remidial treatments as it will not solve the problem more mask it. I agree that a chemically injected DPC could be inerrective if used on a solid wall, though there are other options available which I appreciate are more expensive.

Did you not have a building survey carried out on the property? This would have identified any problems at the time, it would have been prudent with a property of that age.

If you do decide to use the tanking method I have found that K11 by soverign is the best.In my opinion dry lining would not in any way be effective.

There is plenty of information in the way of publications avaiable from BRE

If you are developing properties they could be a worthwile investment.

Hope this has helped.

Jack

 

[ModernMaterials]

As this is the third 'property you will be doing' on this street, why do you need to ask strangers on the internet what to do?

 

[goooba769]

modernmaterials Iv got to be honest you’re an idiot. Why have you picked up on a point which has nothing to do with the question? If he had this problem in the other properties then he would know what to do and subsequently wouldn’t need to ask advice on here. I’m sure the author is thinking the same as me in that if you’re not going to help with the question keep quiet.
Sorry for off topic rant.

 

[ModernMaterials]

Like i said...


If this is number 3 he has already done some plastering or he knows a plasterer.

So why muck about asking strangers?

btw calling me an idiot aint helping him much either

 

[SUPERSLASHER]

I have just finished a tanking job which had one wall 1.8 meters below ground level. It also was a solid brick wall. I took all the old plaster off and then gave it a hose down to get rid of all the dust and loose pointing out. I gave it a coat of watered down pva to seal it and as there was some holes left where the pointing and some of the brick had come away i put a scrach coat of render over it. The next day i put two 3mm coats of vandex75 and left to dry for 24 hours. Then you can plaster over it with what plaster you like. The only thing is you can not puncture the vandex with electric boxes and so on. This is my sixth job like this and had no trouble with damp afterwords.

 

[bjp100]

Superlasher, what did you do about the floor?