Order of works and Dry-lining

[Paul-man]

My builder is currently doing a shell for me, which I will be fitting out.
I will be putting down floor which will have UFH pipes within 65mm screed, drylining the walls and plasterboarding the ceiling.

Does it matter what order these jobs are done in? I presume the floor would come first? Does it then matter about the ceiling and walls?

Secondly, the dry-lining; one of my walls will be a stud partition wall, so this one will need mechanical fixing. Add the ceilings, which will also be screwed up, is it worth screwing the other walls too (to battens), then getting a skim? At one stage I was thinking of dot and dab, but the mix up looks pretty messy.
If I am getting a skim anyway, many of the benefits of dot and dab seem to be lost.

 

[flameport]

Floor, electrical wiring/plumbing pipes, board ceiling, board walls.

Batten the walls if you want - it will just take longer and cost more.
Mixing up driwall adhesive is no different to mixing up finish plaster.

 

[Paul-man]

Thanks, I wasn't going to do the finish plaster, but I was going to do the dot and dab- before I realised the stuff doesn't come in ready-mixed tubs. (I thought it would be like the pre-mixed coving adhesive)

Is your increased cost comment made on the cost of the battens and screws or based on the increased time?

 

[flameport]

Is your increased cost comment made on the cost of the battens and screws or based on the increased time?

Both, since battens will take much longer, plus you have to buy the battens, screws & plugs to fix battens to the walls, and screws to fix the plasterboard to the battens.

Otherwise it's just however many bags of adhesive are required.

 

[simonjay]

Is your increased cost comment made on the cost of the battens and screws or based on the increased time?

Both, since battens will take much longer, plus you have to buy the battens, screws & plugs to fix battens to the walls, and screws to fix the plasterboard to the battens.

Otherwise it's just however many bags of adhesive are required.

Dont forget the newish method of drywall fixing foam. Its like expanding foam but sets much denser. Saves mixing up adhesive. Its also better thermally. Bear in mind though it is slightly compressible, so not good for fixing kitchen wall cabinets through. I used a mixture of battens and drywall fixing foam.

 

[Paul-man]

Thanks SimonJay, that might be a useful option. If I plan where my kitchen units and study bookcases will hang, I can use battens there to screw into.

 

[hammerswinger]

I also have some dry lining to do and was thinking of using the foam, is it really as easy as it looks?

Cheers.