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Dryline painted brick wall.

Discussion in 'Plastering and Rendering' started by fairplay, 26 Oct 2019.

  1. fairplay

    fairplay

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    My daughter (always the kids isn't it!) discovered the wall paper and plaster falling off her kitchen wall. Like most things in her house it is due to a previous botched job. This looks like the painted brick wall (internal partition wall between under the stairs and extended kitchen) was plastered thickly 15mm on to the non-bonded surface. This also looks it was then wall papered with thick (vinyl?) wallpaper without sizing. Then latterly painted, by my daughter no doubt. So this has caused plaster to dry and crumble and now comes off easily in sheets stuck to the now thick wallpaper! Anyway, the good news is it comes off easily and the rest will soon be removed. I'm minded to dab and dot plaster board to it. If I do would I need to PVA it as the brickwork has been painted? I know Gyproc say no need to on brick but as this is painted ..... Is tapered or straight cut best for this? The alternative of course is to get it rendered and plastered properly but as with most children she hasn't got much money and dad is a competent DIY er but not plasterer!
     

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  2. KenGMac

    KenGMac

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    fairplay, good evening.

    Suggest you consider the dot dab as best way ahead, as for the painted brick? consider removing the paint, but only in the areas where the dot will be positioned? scrape[wire brush] hammer and bolster, what ever works, once there is a "clean area" of brick you can go for it.

    Big trick is planning ahead as to where the dots need to be?

    Ken
     
  3. lostinthelight

    lostinthelight

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  4. fairplay

    fairplay

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    Yes, I'm familiar with bluegrit, it was used before skimming an artex ceiling. Of course the plasterboard won't be in contact with most of it. Bit expensive just for a few bricks worth I guess.
    My other concern is how much thicker the whole wall will be? People are talking about a 25mm gap and even with 9.5mm plasterboard that would add 10 mm overall to the previous 15mm of plaster which would then make the architrave sunken.
     
  5. fairplay

    fairplay

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    The wall is about 10 ft by 8ft high. Just been quoted £500 to thistle bond it (after I prep the wall first) and skim. Seems a lot, even for the S.E compared to another recent job by the same guy. maybe he doesn't want this job?
     
  6. martin hill

    martin hill

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    Don't bother. Some 19mm x 38mm tanalised batterns and board over yourself. Then only pay for skimming. Saves trying to muck about with getting the paint off
     
  7. fairplay

    fairplay

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    I would but that would make the wall 30mm thick which would then mean taking down coving, skirting and and an architrave!
     
  8. martin hill

    martin hill

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    Yes get your point. But 12mm plasterboard not going to be far off that. Find a plasterer who can bond then skim straight onto the wall. Funny enough my plasterer here today skimming a 2.2m x 3.0m by 2.7m height room. a 1.8m x 3.0m by 2.7m height room. landing and stairs for 900 quid. so 500 steep.
     
  9. fairplay

    fairplay

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    Thanks, yes that's what I'm working towards - a decent plasterer that can do it in a day!
     
  10. martin hill

    martin hill

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    Strip the whole wall back and get a wire brush on to remove the last rendments of plaster. Tidy up round the understairs door and coving. If the brickwork looks sound it may look nice painted again. She's got a tiled floor so worth a go as you got to prep the wall anyway.
     
  11. fairplay

    fairplay

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    Thanks again. Would have been an option but the section where you see a diagonal line a couple of foot from the diagonal cupboard is rendered cement and is like that till the end of the wall now I have taken the rest off. I think the best option is to replaster bond then skim.
     
  12. foxhole

    foxhole

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    Foam board adhesive , sticks better than dot and dab ( no moisture involved) and a lot quicker to go off, adds no extra depth .
     
  13. fairplay

    fairplay

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    This sounds like a good solution. I have used expanding foam before and it can get a bit messy on smaller intricate jobs but I can see how it could work here and I see there are some specialised versions of this for plasterboard. ANy further comments on using this welcome.
     
  14. foxhole

    foxhole

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  15. fairplay

    fairplay

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    Thanks to everybody for their helpful suggestions. I will let you know what the final outcome was when we get there!
     
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