earthing rods

ok i havent got a problem going from the cu i'm quite looking forward to it but if there was a easier and cheaper way i would of gone with that.
Can i just make sure,whats the minimum size wire you would use and also because the junction box for connecting the 2 different wires will be in side do i have to use the swa gland kits or can i just put it through a hole in the box.

Oh yeah no fighting now or bitchiness :evil:
 
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shrimp said:
ok i havent got a problem going from the cu i'm quite looking forward to it but if there was a easier and cheaper way i would of gone with that.
Can i just make sure,whats the minimum size wire you would use and also because the junction box for connecting the 2 different wires will be in side do i have to use the swa collet kits or can i just put it through a hole in the box.

Oh yeah no fighting now or **** :evil:

minimum size depends on many factors: MCB rating, length of run etc etc

4mm on a 32A breaker should be enough, altho depending on length you may need 6mm
 
andrew2022 said:
shrimp said:
ok i havent got a problem going from the cu i'm quite looking forward to it but if there was a easier and cheaper way i would of gone with that.
Can i just make sure,whats the minimum size wire you would use and also because the junction box for connecting the 2 different wires will be in side do i have to use the swa collet kits or can i just put it through a hole in the box.

Oh yeah no fighting now or **** :evil:

minimum size depends on many factors: MCB rating, length of run etc etc

4mm on a 32A breaker should be enough, altho depending on length you may need 6mm

I think the run should be around 70ft give or take
 
hmmm.... 2KW (possibly more) heater, battery charger, circ. saw plus others.... so, even you have just admitted your total power need will be over 13A. so, it looks like youll get sick of blowing a 13A fuse and put a nail in place of the fuse. so, tommytank, this isnt a bodge job then?

Bloody ell who do you think he is Mr Octopussy.How many arms do you think he has.I mean how many appliances can one possibly use at any one time?Each appliance has 13A plug top so why would it exceed total load?Just because he said heater does not mean he will be getting a 3KW one just for his shed.Whatever load he has does not mean the suggested method constitutes a bodge job.I bet you have done worse and know it!
 
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Tommy Tank said:
b****y ell who do you think he is Mr Octopussy.How many arms do you think he has.I mean how many appliances can one possibly use at any one time?Each appliance has 13A plug top so why would it exceed total load?Just because he said heater does not mean he will be getting a 3KW one just for his shed.Whatever load he has does not mean the suggested method constitutes a bodge job.I bet you have done worse and know it!

notice how i said heater, lights circ saw and not everything else? thats because i know he cant use everything at once. but the fact still remain that with the heater on he is close to max, before any tools are used
 
shrimp said:
So what size then and 2 or 3 core plus is it ok to use a standard junction box.

should be OK usin 4mm with a 32A MCB in the house.

standard junction box is no good - use a metal thru box. that way you can easily earth the armour. as for 2 or 3 core - you have 2 options: 2 core and use armour as earth or use 3C and use 1 of the cores for earth aswell as the armour. TBH, i would use the 2C and use armour as earth
 
shrimp said:
Plus that would be a bit expensive run in all swa cable.
I get worried when people start making design decisions for external circuits on the basis of what's the cheapest cable...
 
ban-all-sheds said:
shrimp said:
Plus that would be a bit expensive run in all swa cable.
I get worried when people start making design decisions for external circuits on the basis of what's the cheapest cable...

It is going to be swa outside but normal inside :evil:
 
ban-all-sheds said:
shrimp said:
Plus that would be a bit expensive run in all swa cable.
I get worried when people start making design decisions for external circuits on the basis of what's the cheapest cable...

I installed my shower with bell wire becuase it was cheaper than the 10 size cable my sparky friend told me to use, it gets hot, but it means I can turn the radiators down :LOL: :rolleyes: ;)
 
Adam_151 said:
ban-all-sheds said:
shrimp said:
Plus that would be a bit expensive run in all swa cable.
I get worried when people start making design decisions for external circuits on the basis of what's the cheapest cable...

I installed my shower with bell wire becuase it was cheaper than the 10 size cable my sparky friend told me to use, it gets hot, but it means I can turn the radiators down :LOL: :rolleyes: ;)

:LOL: :LOL: :LOL:
 
Adam_151 said:
ban-all-sheds said:
shrimp said:
Plus that would be a bit expensive run in all swa cable.
I get worried when people start making design decisions for external circuits on the basis of what's the cheapest cable...

I installed my shower with bell wire becuase it was cheaper than the 10 size cable my sparky friend told me to use, it gets hot, but it means I can turn the radiators down :LOL: :rolleyes: ;)
i wired my shed some 100M away with alarm cable. i made sure to use 6 core and double up, since it does have to take a large welder and varous high powered tools

also, i couldbe be bothered to get T&E. i wired everything in single insulated red, making use of metal framework for neutral and earth. saved a lot of cable...
 
now i have got a 4ft earth rod and a clamp,now i know you have to drive this into the ground near the shed but how far away from the shed also does it need to be covered by a small inspection hole and should i use 6mm earth cable to conect it up to the cu :eek:
 
The earth rod should be in an accessable location. It should also be accessable by the likes of an inspection pit.. If the cable is PVC coated (protected against corrosion) it needs to be 16mm² or if it is protected against mechanical damage as well as corrosion 2.5mm² is adequate.
How are you going to test the rod when installed?
 
Spark123 said:
The earth rod should be in an accessable location. It should also be accessable by the likes of an inspection pit.. If the cable is PVC coated (protected against corrosion) it needs to be 16mm² or if it is protected against mechanical damage as well as corrosion 2.5mm² is adequate.
How are you going to test the rod when installed?

I was looking into get the LABC in testing it and checking it out,anybody got any clue how much they charge.
Also what do you mean by machanical damage :eek:
 

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