Eaves tray fitting options

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just got round to starting to fit eaves trays.

Removed the first few rows of tiles to see the distance between first horizontal tile lath and the fascia/rafter end is fairly close which means the trays can't be pushed very far up.

If I trim the depth of the eaves tray so it butts up to the first tile lath it doesn't sit on the rafters very well and feels like it doesn't very much support to the felt

Do people ever remove the first tile lath, push the tray up as far as possible then re nail the lath on top of the eaves tray and felt?

Is this a feasible option or is the additional thickness of the eaves tray likely to cause problems with how the tiles sit when re fitted? (Especially where they overlap)
 
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Your plan could cause you problems- the felt should sag slightly between rafters so any water getting onto it can drain into the gutter. If you do as you intend then water could pond above the 1st batten instead. Solution i used was cut a load of shallow grooves across the underside of the 1st batten (i used a router, chopsaw with a depth stop would work just as well). On mine (fibre cement slates) no visible step due to the added thickness.
 
Thanks for the reply and the suggestion. would be interested to see what others have done in this situation as ive got about 30 metres worth of trays to fit.

I think the problem ive got is that the top my fascia sits a couple of inches above the top of the rafters which makes them a bit tricky to fit

do you think they wont do their job as well if i trim them back so they butt up to the first lath?
 
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They'll probably be fine, the felt only seriously degrades when exposed to wind, rain and sunlight. The kick from the fascia board is normal, the trays are shaped to deal with it. Ultimately up to you how you do it- me I'd be lifting the battens, grooving them and refixing, not much of a job when you can just lift the tiles off. My method may be overkill ( there should be little or no water hitting the felt) but end of the day its up to you.
 
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When the bottom lath means you’ll literally be cutting down the eaves tray in half To go up to it then do so but daft as it sounds throw the lipped bit away and just use the straight flat bit Instead. Just make sure the gutter is nice and high. Sometimes on small tiles and a really low lath we do this.
 
When the bottom lath means you’ll literally be cutting down the eaves tray in half To go up to it then do so but daft as it sounds throw the lipped bit away and just use the straight flat bit Instead. Just make sure the gutter is nice and high. Sometimes on small tiles and a really low lath we do this.

Not sure if got that fully mw....
So are you saying that you cut off the lip that would hang down into the gutters then push the remaining flat part of the tray as far up as it will go until it hits the first lath making sure the gutter is high enough to catch any run off?
Thanks
 
Solution i used was cut a load of shallow grooves across the underside of the 1st batten (i used a router, chopsaw with a depth stop would work just as well). On mine (fibre cement slates) no visible step due to the added thickness.

Think i misread it the first time thinking that you cut wide grooves at the intersection of each lath and rafter so that the lath would sit at the correct height on the rafter when the trays fit under the lath....

After re reading this i finally realised your groves were to prevent trapping water and aiding drainage..(homer Simpson moment!)

Did you just add the grooves at regular intervals between each rafter
 
Plain tiles first battens will need removing.
Another option is to remove battens , if the felts ok from batten up then slip the trays up under the felt .
Re fit battens . But in-between the rafters slip a slip of lead hooked over the top of the batten this wil then form a slight trough for drainaged. It won't be 10mm but better than nothing.
And to be fair if there's any amount of water running down then you have a roof issue .
 
Cheers datarebal. Got a bunch of old lead from another job that i can use for this.
 
Think i misread it the first time ....

Did you just add the grooves at regular intervals between each rafter
I was lazy- used the router with a 6mm cutter set at about 5mm depth and cut a channel every 100mm or so.
 

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