Edging for recessed floor mat in floorboards

[oak85]

I would like to make edging to a recessed mat well, similar that shown shown in this photo. This isn't my house, but the set up is essentially the same with the depth of the floorboards to create an edge.

I'm struggling to find a product that is specific to a mat well, other than ones that look like they belong in an office rather than a home. Should I just using an L shaped carpet threshold, a bit like the product on this website?

Premier Square Lip - Polished Brass

25mm x 25mm Premier Square Lip in Polished Brass. L-shaped brass trim with a square profile for floors or worktops. Self-adhesive strip on reverse for quick, secure fitting.

www.stairheaven.com

This one seem to have an adhesive strip on the back, but presumably you could put screws through instead.

 

[Wayners]

That is a step edging. L shaped.
How much floor to door bottom clearance have you got? if you have a low threshold door it could
Thin coconut matt is about 17mm thick then edge that?
You will also need something under to stop water dripping.
You could use something like this which is more for outside I guess https://amzn.eu/d/03zQVPIy

 

[foxhole]

I would like to make edging to a recessed mat well, similar that shown shown in this photo. This isn't my house, but the set up is essentially the same with the depth of the floorboards to create an edge.

View attachment 412532

I'm struggling to find a product that is specific to a mat well, other than ones that look like they belong in an office rather than a home. Should I just using an L shaped carpet threshold, a bit like the product on this website?

Premier Square Lip - Polished Brass

25mm x 25mm Premier Square Lip in Polished Brass. L-shaped brass trim with a square profile for floors or worktops. Self-adhesive strip on reverse for quick, secure fitting.

www.stairheaven.com

This one seem to have an adhesive strip on the back, but presumably you could put screws through instead.

Why do you want to screw when it’s got adhesive.?

 

[oak85]

That is a step edging. L shaped.
How much floor to door bottom clearance have you got? if you have a low threshold door it could
Thin coconut matt is about 17mm thick then edge that?
You will also need something under to stop water dripping.
You could use something like this which is more for outside I guess https://amzn.eu/d/03zQVPIy

I don't have the exact measurement to hand but a layer of laminate and underlay has been removed. So I now have clearance a little more than the depth of those two layers. The front door was previously pretty close to the top of the laminate, so it isn't going to be much but I think enough for the depth of the edging.

Is the mat you've sent on that link just as an example of something to stop water getting through the coconut mat onto the wood below? This seems sensible as the spacing of the joists relative to the front door and desired recess size (60x40cm) means that a bit of the joist is 'exposed'. The contractor added a length of wood onto the side of the joist so that the floorboards could be cut back a bit further but still have something to rest on. It did make me feel a little cautious that the joist was visible.

Why do you want to screw when it’s got adhesive.?

No reason other than the example one I'm trying to replicate has screws, and that would seem to be a bit more robust. But nothing beyond that.

 

[foxhole]

I don't have the exact measurement to hand but a layer of laminate and underlay has been removed. So I now have clearance a little more than the depth of those two layers. The front door was previously pretty close to the top of the laminate, so it isn't going to be much but I think enough for the depth of the edging.

Is the mat you've sent on that link just as an example of something to stop water getting through the coconut mat onto the wood below? This seems sensible as the spacing of the joists relative to the front door and desired recess size (60x40cm) means that a bit of the joist is 'exposed'. The contractor added a length of wood onto the side of the joist so that the floorboards could be cut back a bit further but still have something to rest on. It did make me feel a little cautious that the joist was visible.


No reason other than the example one I'm trying to replicate has screws, and that would seem to be a bit more robust. But nothing beyond that.

Mine is stuck down , been just fine.