Electric cooker wiring

[sbbmilla]

Hope someone can help!

Our electric oven recently broke. We've been given an old gas oven by a friend which we'll be having put in by a gas man shortly until we can afford a new oven. The plan will be to buy another electric oven so obviously want to leave all the electrics in place ready. The control unit has got a plug socket in it which we use so I don't want to just remove the fuse switch from the consumer unit.

My plan was to just put a junction box on the end of the wire I remove from the cooker to keep it safe. Is this okay and is a 30amp JB okay to use?

Hope this makes sense! Thank you!

 

[JohnD]

Where the cable comes out of the wall it ought to have a cooker connection unit. These are made so that you can turn off the power, remove the front cover, and unscrew the terminals that the cooker cable goes into. Then replace the cover until you get another electric cooker.

That's the right thing to do.

In the unlikely event that you have no connector, get one and fit it to the cable where it comes out of the wall. You can use a deep surface box if you don't want to cut a hole in the wall (the box has to be big because the cables and terminals are unusually large). It also has a a big cable clamp to resist damage if you move the cooker for cleaning (big cables are quite stiff)

They cost about £3 in Wickes or Screwfix, about double that in B&Q.

http://www.screwfix.com/sfd/i/cat/89/p1449289_l.jpg

http://www.screwfix.com/sfd/i/cat/89/p1449289_l.jpg

http://www.screwfix.com/sfd/i/cat/40/p2847840_l.jpg

Crabtree and MK are good brands, the budget ones are not.

Modern cooker switches and connection units are rated at 45A. A 32A junction box is big and clumsy, and will not be as good.

Remember to get a length of G&Y sleeving for the earth wire.