Electric Fan Heater Thermal Cut Off

That model number, on the label, traces to what appears to be the fan motor. Likely the heater model will be on a label on the outer case of the heater.
As Harry says the 16W relates to the fan assembly.
OK - but if the fan is 230V (and 16W) then, contrary to what Scally-Ho was suggesting, the heating elements will surely also be (wired for) 230V, won't they?
 
I believe it is quite easy to conclude that this unit containg a 230V fan and 230V heating elements is in fact designed for use on 230V.

Especially as:
Copied from the manual I linked to:
1745615479000.png


Copies from OPs photo:
1745615505313.png
 
I believe it is quite easy to conclude that this unit containg a 230V fan and 230V heating elements is in fact designed for use on 230V.
As you will be aware, that is precisely what I have concluded (despite earlier suggestions to the contrary).
 
I had a fire at work caused by a fan heater where the thermal cut out failed, it had been put under a desk and was propped up at an angle, so the cut-out was not any more directly above the elements, the acid smoke resulted in the fire brigade being required to enter the room with breathing apparatus, fire stopped in main by turning off supply, the rooms had storage heaters, which had been switched off as the temperature improved, but a cold snap resulted in being caught out, so someone had got a fan heater. Had they been in the room, there would have been no problem, but they left the room, to return to a room full of smoke.

I would say, after that, the best option is to put it in the bin. Just not worth the risk.
 
I had a fire at work caused by a fan heater where the thermal cut out failed, it had been put under a desk and was propped up at an angle, so the cut-out was not any more directly above the elements ...
That's a possibility with any fan heater if it is 'mis-used' in such a fashion, isn't it?
.... fire stopped in main by turning off supply,
I don't really understand how any significant fire would be stopped by turning off the electricity supply - once a significant fire is established, it no loner requires any ongoing 'source of ignition.
I would say, after that, the best option is to put it in the bin. Just not worth the risk.
That doesn't seem to be a very logical statement to be based on your anecdotal story about a 'mis-used' fan heater causing a fire. You are presumably not suggesting that all brand new fan heaters should be "put in the bin", are you ??
 
Quote of what - myself saying what I refer to in my post?
I simply didn't feel the need to quote any one in the situation, does that really require explanation?

However there was an element (excuse the unintended pun) of confusion within the thread about the suitability of the product (I assume it is being used in UK).
 
I simply didn't feel the need to quote any one in the situation, does that really require explanation?
I must be getting old (I am :-) ) since I probably do still need 'an explanation of what your "... and why no quote" meant ;)
 
I must be getting old (I am :) ) since I probably do still need 'an explanation of what your "... and why no quote" meant ;)
If I was going to quote anyone it would have been the post stating the heater is for use on 120V, all I wanted to do was offer my expectation of why that is not the case.
 
If I was going to quote anyone it would have been the post stating the heater is for use on 120V, all I wanted to do was offer my expectation of why that is not the case.
OK. As I said, it was your "... and why no quote" (in your message which quoted my message) that confused me. I 'imagined' that there was meant to be a question mark at the end end of your sentence - i.e. that you were asking me why I had not included some quote - and I didn't understand that :-)
 
OK. As I said, it was your "... and why no quote" (in your message which quoted my message) that confused me. I 'imagined' that there was meant to be a question mark at the end end of your sentence - i.e. that you were asking me why I had not included some quote - and I didn't understand that :)
Well at that point I was directly responding to your comment, if I hadn't quoted you, my comment would have had little, if any, sensible meaning whereas previous to that I made a general comment, in some ways explaining where my link had introduced any confusion that had arisen in the thread.

I think that should resolve any outstanding confusions and hand this thread back to the initial enquiry.
 
Thanks for the replies.

The elements are sitting slightly loose at present as I removed the casing around them to check. There are no issues with air flow, and the heating elements never glow red, which makes me think there is never any current passing through them.
 
I suggest that you TEMPORARILY short-circuit the thermal cut-out,
to see if the heater "operates" for longer than the few seconds that it now does
and
that the "elements" then start to heat.

Do not carry out the test for longer than about 30 seconds
but,
if the "elements" do start to heat,
you will have proved that you have a faulty thermal cut-out,
 
I suggest that you TEMPORARILY short-circuit the thermal cut-out,
to see if the heater "operates" for longer than the few seconds that it now does

There are better (safer) ways to check if the thermal cut-out has operated, i.e. measure the voltage across it.

But my feeling is that if you don’t know how to “debug” a basic circuit, then this high-power potentially-dangerous device is not the project where you should start.
 

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