My son recently bought a house, the previous owner of which did extensive renovations of the plumbing, including enclosing the WC in a Fort Knox of plywood. Water has started intermittently leaking into the pan. I have fixed a similar problem on my own WC (replaced the siamp valve) but mine has a circular pushbutton which I could unscrew by pushing the buttons down and gripping the inside. But this thing is elliptical with an elliptical chrome collar and I am not sure how to proceed. The top panel does not lift off and there are no screws to be seen. Also, is it possible to identify the flush mechanism from that eccentric oval pushbutton? Reason I ask is, if it doesn't include a siamp valve the job is probably beyond my competence.
Elliptical flush button
- Thread starter Calculus
- Start date
My son recently bought a house, the previous owner of which did extensive renovations of the plumbing, including enclosing the WC in a Fort Knox of plywood. Water has started intermittently leaking into the pan. I have fixed a similar problem on my own WC (replaced the siamp valve) but mine has a circular pushbutton which I could unscrew by pushing the buttons down and gripping the inside. But this thing is elliptical with an elliptical chrome collar and I am not sure how to proceed. The top panel does not lift off and there are no screws to be seen. Also, is it possible to identify the flush mechanism from that eccentric oval pushbutton? Reason I ask is, if it doesn't include a siamp valve the job is probably beyond my competence.
Sponsored Links
There will be something like a 15mm hole drilled in that top panel, through which the push button runs.
You'll almost certainly find the top vertical panel will pull off for you to access the cistern.
Strange that the push button wasn't fitted to that panel rather than the top piece??
You'll almost certainly find the top vertical panel will pull off for you to access the cistern.
Strange that the push button wasn't fitted to that panel rather than the top piece??
You can see a small (4mm) gap on each side of that vertical panel. Maybe I should try inserting something thin and bent on each side and tugging. As for the strange arrangement, I have to tell you this would-be plumber has not attached either the bath or the kitchen taps to the bath and sink respectively. The taps just float in the hole. You grab a tap and it moves alarmingly. There are other offences...
To answer your other point; the top panel will not budge at all, and I've pushed and pulled it as hard as I dare. I think it's being held on by that pushbutton.
Last edited:
The top front panel pops off, also if you cut around the silicone that is around the toilet, then this panel should slide up after the panel above is removed.
Watch from 16.00:
https://www.google.com/search?q=con...#fpstate=ive&vld=cid:95e9409c,vid:kI1rI3VT6zs
Andy
Watch from 16.00:
https://www.google.com/search?q=con...#fpstate=ive&vld=cid:95e9409c,vid:kI1rI3VT6zs
Andy
Sponsored Links
If you get stuck, just post more pictures of the problem.
Andy
Andy
Bringing this thread back because I have got back to the house and taken some pics:
Can someone tell me what I am looking at as I am not even sure how many components there are. Is that flat-topped white structure with the yellow cable a part of the flush mechanism or something else (in which case what is it?). The markings on the grey component are
A23-06
BS1212-4
EN14124
WRAS
There is no immediate need to do anything as the leak into the pan seems to have sorted itself, but I have to assume it will start leaking again at some point. If it does, is there anything that could reasonably be done by a non-plumber? I am happy to buy a replacement mechanism if these are still available.
Thanks,
Chris
Can someone tell me what I am looking at as I am not even sure how many components there are. Is that flat-topped white structure with the yellow cable a part of the flush mechanism or something else (in which case what is it?). The markings on the grey component are
A23-06
BS1212-4
EN14124
WRAS
There is no immediate need to do anything as the leak into the pan seems to have sorted itself, but I have to assume it will start leaking again at some point. If it does, is there anything that could reasonably be done by a non-plumber? I am happy to buy a replacement mechanism if these are still available.
Thanks,
Chris
Reopening this thread because I think I have identified one of parts of this flush system which may give a clue what comprises the rest of the mechanism:
www.bathroomspareparts.co.uk
My non-plumber instincts tell me the leaking problem, which I have been told has returned and is not stopped by repeated flushing, is more likely to be caused by a problem with that white inverted-pot thing that the yellow cable is entering. Can anyone tell me what that is, and whether it is replaceable or serviceable?
Uni Top Flush Air Gap Side Entry Fill Valve A28-06-31
Uni Top Flush Air Gap Side Entry Fill Valve A28-06-31 The Air Gap Side Entry Valve is designed by a patented structure, a convenient water level
My non-plumber instincts tell me the leaking problem, which I have been told has returned and is not stopped by repeated flushing, is more likely to be caused by a problem with that white inverted-pot thing that the yellow cable is entering. Can anyone tell me what that is, and whether it is replaceable or serviceable?
Progress! The householder has sent me a video of water gushing out of the input valve - here is a still:
So it looks like the problem is with that input valve (see previous post for probable identification of the part). It looks rather like the problem I used to get with old fashioned cisterns where the ball float had fallen off or sprung a leak, leaving the valve permanently on. So I now need advice what to do next. Does that valve just need adjusting or should it be replaced? If the latter, is that within the capabilities of an amateur with hydrophobia or does it need a plumber? And is that side entry visible in the photo the only way the valve attaches to the cistern body, or are there horrors lurking beneath?
So it looks like the problem is with that input valve (see previous post for probable identification of the part). It looks rather like the problem I used to get with old fashioned cisterns where the ball float had fallen off or sprung a leak, leaving the valve permanently on. So I now need advice what to do next. Does that valve just need adjusting or should it be replaced? If the latter, is that within the capabilities of an amateur with hydrophobia or does it need a plumber? And is that side entry visible in the photo the only way the valve attaches to the cistern body, or are there horrors lurking beneath?
This should do the job
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
Sponsored Links
