Engineered flooring in Kitchen

[eyeofthebeholder]

Hi,

We are going to be ripping out the kitchen soon to replace it. Instead of laminate or vinyl, we are thinking of laying engineered flooring instead before the new kitchen goes in.

- First off, is this a good idea laying engineered (rather than solid for example) in a Kitchen. Is there much problem with water spills etc?

- The kitchen is on the 1st floor (of a town house) and has chipboard floor at the moment. At this time I'm not sure if the floor is completely sound, but if it is, what would you recommend for an underlay?

- We were looking at something similar to http://www.ukflooringdirect.co.uk/E..._Oak_Flooring_110mm_Brushed_%2526_Matt_L.html

- With Engineered flooring, what long-term maintainance is required? It is similar to solid wood? Is there any short-term maintainance?

Also, out of interest, what other flooring could I look at (other than solid/laminate/cork/vinyl) for about £15 - £20 psqm.

Thanks for your help

 

[WoodYouLike]

Also, out of interest, what other flooring could I look at (other than solid/laminate/cork/vinyl) for about £15 - £20 psqm.

Thanks for your help

The link you placed is officially not a wood-engineered floor, but a wood-veneer floor, not something we would recommend in a kitchen due to the thickness - lack of thickness - of the solid top layer.

Wood-engineered is really more suitable in areas where there can be more moist, but think within your budget you will be hardpressed to find decent quality.

 

[eyeofthebeholder]

might be a stupid question, but I don't really know the actual construction techniques....

On the website I linked to previosly (http://www.ukflooringdirect.co.uk/Engineered.htm?ref=1&sort=4a&page=1), there is several so-called engineed wood flooring, which have several different top-layer thicknesses.

Why would a thicker top-layer be better in kitchens than say a 0.6mm. I have see there is 2mm, 2.5mm, 4mm etc, if they are made the same way?

When does a wood-veneer floor become a wood-engineed floor?

 

[WoodYouLike]

The thickness of the top layer determines the total thickness of the board - to stabilise any difference in strength between the materials used (think Oak on pine backing) rule of thumb: the backing should be between 2 and 2.5 times the thickness of the top layer. The thicker the total board, the more stable and rigid it is (less chance of bouncing, flexing of the boards).

8 to 10mm thick boards you can imagine will flex more than 14 - 15 mm thick boards. And then again a 20 - 21 mm thick engineered board will be even more sturdier.

The 'standard' rule: up to 2mm thick top layer = wood-veneer (solid layer is mostly peeled from a tree, not cut as a thin board), above 2mm = wood-engineered.

 

[eyeofthebeholder]

excellent - thanks for your help on that.

You stated in the previous post about cost. Looking at this: http://www.ukflooringdirect.co.uk/E...gineered_Family_Oak_Flooring_180mm_Oiled.html

For the money, would this classed a cheap and/or nasty or fairly decent? Basically I'd rather not go for it if a decent flooring is out of our price range. I would go for an alternative such as laminate or vinyl which could be replaced more easily.

 

[WoodYouLike]

The floor you linked to is IMHO questionable for a few reasons: the balance between top layer and total thickness is off.
They also state a 2.5mm solid top layer can be sanded upto 4 times - sure, if you use sanding paper and do it by hand. A proper sanding will take off 1 - 1.5mm, so this floor can safely be properly sanded once.
The Nature grade as shown in the image contains plenty of sapwood, despite the fact the info states: with little or no sapwood - allowed in a nature grade, but you have to like it.

(and their maintenance tips are OTT too )

Budget wise I can't advice you really - are you planning to stay in your home for a long time?

 

[eyeofthebeholder]

Hi,

We are thinking of staying in the house for quite a long time - at least another 25 years+.

We are also thinking of laying the same floor into the lounge (on the same floor) in our town house (1st floor).

How often does it need sanding?

 

[WoodYouLike]

In our experience and when maintained properly, hardly ever. But again: the better quality you buy, the better it will hold up to daily live. And therefore the longer your "investment" lasts
See also reason 13 on value of wooden flooring

 

[eyeofthebeholder]

If we were going to spend £50psqm that would be £2500 for our lounge and kitchen. This is a tad over budget.

To be honest for the area I was looking at max of £30psqm which is £1500 and then you have the underlay and trim etc on top.

What would you recommend for underlay for the floor, knowing it is going on existing chipboard floor?

I will be fitting new skirting all round in both rooms. Would I need and other trims to make it look 'finished'?