euro-profile locks

[tia]

Hi
I read in the Daily Mail recently that euro-profile locks which are used on UPVC doors can be sprung very easily by burglers 'using a simple method which talkes less than five seconds.' It was commented that, 'this is a ticking time bomb and something must be done quickly.' Does anyone here have any information about these locks and are all UPVC doors fitted with them? My friend says that hers isn't and that it has '5 locks inside the frame.' which fit into the caseing or something like that anyway.
Thanks
Tia

 

[JohnD]

Sadly your friend is (probably) mistaken.

The Euro-cylinder is the part that a key goes into. The key makes the internal cylinder rotate, and the door is then unlocked, and the latches and bolts your friend mentions then move. If the cylinder is successfully attacked then all the latches and bolts it controls become worthless, as they are no longer locked shut.

The Euro cylinder looks like this, you can probably see just the tip of it peeping through the handle or door surface.

If someone comes along with a tool that can rotate the entire cylinder, then it will twist and either break off, or turn the latches and bolts that hold the door shut.

Such a tool is available.

The cylinder is particularly vulnerable if there is enough of it sticking out to grab hold of with the appropriate tool. If the end of the cylinder is flush with a metal escutcheon, then there should be nothing for the tool to get hold of.

Personally I've always preferred Chubb locks with levers or detainers, not cylinders.

This question cropped up a while ago, I understand that you can get a substantial steel surround that fits closely to the cylinder and prevents a tool getting hold of it; this prevents the method of entry.

The reason PVC doors need to have a lot of linked rollers, hooks, bolts or latches to keep them closed, is that they are rather soft and flexible, and could otherwise be forced open more easily than a solid wooden door.

 

[HandyHands]

JohnD - Spot on.

The only thing I'd like to add, is that cylinders are available that defeat this attack. Your local Locksmith should be able to advise.

 

[salem2000]

Is it really wise to describe the method on an open forum.

Salem.

 

[HandyHands]

The information is openly available, and defeating the Euro is only half the story in opening these doors. If people know about a weakness, they can do something about rectifying it.

 

[salem2000]

The information is openly available, and defeating the Euro is only half the story in opening these doors. If people know about a weakness, they can do something about rectifying it.

That may be so, but it's only available because people tell someone how to do it.

Salem.

 

[tia]

I agree with Handy Hands - seems like this information is 'readily available' and I would like to thanks JohnD for providing this information which will enable myself and anybody else who wishes, to take the necessary steps.

I have printed copies of the info you provided to give to my friends and family who have these doors.

Thanks Tia

 

[danlightbulb]

Has anyone got picture of badly fitted cylinder and a well fitted one so we can compare our locks to it?

And could someone just clarify for me, that it is only the middle part of the picture above, not the combined cylinder / metal casing that is protruding?

 

[JohnD]

It is not just the round part that the key goes into, it is the surround comprising the rounded part of the case and the "chin" beneath it.

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If there is enough of this casing protruding to get hold of, then a tool can grab it.

 

[danlightbulb]

Mine protudes from the handle by about 1cm on the outside and about 0.5cm on the inside.

I only had the door fitted September last year, so I should get them back in.

 

[masona]

The only way at the moment I know of is a Mul-T-Lock
The cylinder above is designed to break cleanly by using the shear-pin method so the door cannot open.

 

[HandyHands]

With the Mul-T-Lock, if a breakage occurs at one of the stress points, it leaves the remaining cylinder intact within the mechanism, and the key should still operate the remaining portion of the cylinder to open/lock the door. These are not cheap though, and as previously stated - a correctly fitted cylinder will defeat all but the most aggressive of assaults.

 

[JonB]

I have been thinking about changing the lock on our UPVC front door,
the keys are getting sloppy. It is the same type as being talked about,
I cannot see the retaining screw through the hole in the side of the door .
Is it possible it is in behind the double glazing unit?

Cheers

JonB

 

[HandyHands]

If you cannot see the retaining screw, it may be behind the mechanism and only accessible when the handles are in the locked position. Look for a hole where the retaining screw should be, and move the handles up/down - you should be able to see the mechanism move, and it's likely to be an allen key hidden behind it.

Or, if you've an older aluminium framed door, there may be a faceplate that you need to unscrew before you can access the retaining screw.

Any problems - shout.

 

[JonB]

Thanks for that Handy