If you had done this as previously advised you might not have needed to replace the PRV.
When changing the PRV just isolate the CH on the boiler valves.
Tony Glazier
EV or PRV problem?
- Thread starter shamilt1
- Start date
If you had done this as previously advised you might not have needed to replace the PRV.
When changing the PRV just isolate the CH on the boiler valves.
Tony Glazier
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Do the isolation valves tend to leak on this boiler if disturbed?
Tried it, but it didn't work for me unfortunately.
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G
gaswizzard
Don't touch them.
Agile";p="2216024 said:
Dont know where these valves are, so no danger of me touching them 
. Thanks guys for the heads up on that one. When I do it I'm going to bleed the radiators, screw down auto air vent, drain boiler with the PRV, fit new PRV, then re- pressurise to 1 1/4 BAR ( as suggested in a previous post). Seems a very slow drip at the moment though, so might bide my time and see how long it takes for the pressure to drop.
. Thanks guys for the heads up on that one. When I do it I'm going to bleed the radiators, screw down auto air vent, drain boiler with the PRV, fit new PRV, then re- pressurise to 1 1/4 BAR ( as suggested in a previous post). Seems a very slow drip at the moment though, so might bide my time and see how long it takes for the pressure to drop.I don't see any reason for bleeding the radiators or closing off the Automatic Air Valve.
Yes you might need to open a bleed valve to allow air in to allow water to flow out quicker. You will have to bleed radiators after re filling.
What purpose would closing the AAV achieve. If you do close it (no harm done) you must open it again before re filling to allow any air to escape
Yes you might need to open a bleed valve to allow air in to allow water to flow out quicker. You will have to bleed radiators after re filling.
What purpose would closing the AAV achieve. If you do close it (no harm done) you must open it again before re filling to allow any air to escape
David937 wrote:
No need to drain the system, make sure the radiators have no air in them, screw down the automatic air vent, drain the boiler and carry out your repair, water can't escape unless air replaces it, hence making sure there is no air in your radiators and screwing down the AAV.
Read more: //www.diynot.com/forums/plumbing/ev-or-prv-problem.303114/page-2#2215680#ixzz1gEJDoB9X
You bleed the rads and close the aav to stop air getting into the system so you create a vaccum, hence no need to use isolation valves OR drain the system OR let any air in. It makes work quicker and simpler. Its the same principle as bunging.
G
gaswizzard
Been in the cupboard under my stairs, sat by my boiler with my new PRV all weekend awaiting a response to the question above
With the computer?
Depends if you have a spare or not.
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