Extend soil pipe for shower waste advice

Discussion in 'Plumbing and Central Heating' started by mentalmike, 23 Dec 2020.

  1. mentalmike

    mentalmike

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    I'm adding a shower to my bathroom to the left of where the soil pipe bends for the toilet. A toilet will be fitted back in it's original place. I need to keep the 40mm shower waste below floor level so using a branch vertically isn't an option.

    1.jpg

    Would something like the following be ok? Use a branch on it's side with a 40mm solvent weld boss adaptor in the end?

    2.jpg

    Just checking this kind of thing is ok, especially being used horizontally. Or are there any other better options? If the branch is the way to go want angle should I go for?

    Thanks in advance on any advice!
     
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  3. Hugh Jaleak

    Hugh Jaleak

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    It's not ideal but if needs must then you can. Use solvent welded fitting as you mentioned, last thing you want is the pipework coming apart. Try and get the shower connection in as high as possible to avoid any possible backing up of the soil causing an issue with the shower waste.

    If you remove the existing bend, I wouldn't rely on reusing the seal in the 110mm pipe, (it'll have shrunk and wont seal again), so you'll need to cut back the 110mm, (chamfer the end) and fit a coupler, new section of 110mm, then your junction.
     
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  4. mentalmike

    mentalmike

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    (y) Thanks for the advice! My only other idea was to still use a branch, but then extend a bit, blank off and use a boss strap (not preferred) or use a boss to enter from the top of the soil pipe, but thought my original idea might be better as it cuts down on the amount of connections.
     
  5. Madrab

    Madrab

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    If you are using the branch then I'd run a little extra pipe with a socket on it to take the shower waste outlet away from the toilet downflow to minimise any crossflow issues when the toilet's flushed, then pop one of these in, orientated towards the top of the pipe.

    [​IMG]
     
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  6. mentalmike

    mentalmike

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    I was looking at one of them first, but then thought a solvent weld version would be better? I do like that with that version I'd be able to position the inlet higher though
     
  7. mentalmike

    mentalmike

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    Would a branch with greater angle such as 112.5 for the toilet be better to help with flow direction? The toilet will back onto a wall unit so I can easily hide the angle of the pan waste
     
  8. Madrab

    Madrab

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    Yup, if you want to go solvent weld then you'll need to use a small piece of push fit pipe after the branch then a push fit to solvent adapter, then another piece of solvent weld pipe into a double socket straight coupler to then give a solvent weld end socket, then fit one of these - Solvent weld 110mm to 50mm with 40/32mm solvent weld adapters

    [​IMG]

    Not sure if there's space to fit all of that and still have the shower waste connect up ok tho.
     
  9. stuwa88

    stuwa88

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    You could try putting a branch into that existing socket and testing it with buckets of water till your satisfied it’s leak free..however incase the existing socket doesn’t seal when you take out the bend and put in a branch I would cut the pipe back a bit and glue on a loose collar and start from there (although it would move your toilet waste a couple inches) If the toilet waste has to be EXACTLY where it currently is I would cut the existing waste back - glue on a collar - put a bit of pipe with your branch in so it lands where you want it..then the glued boss you suggested and run off in 40mm for the shower. Below is the loose collar I am referring to. Good luck pal!
    ADD32E42-ABB0-4B8E-B0B3-480EA6C00065.jpeg
     
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  11. lostinthelight

    lostinthelight

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    If the pipe make could be identified I would look first into fitting a new seal l, it may be easier than cutting the socket off even if it meant buying the cheapest fitting to get one?
     
  12. Hugh Jaleak

    Hugh Jaleak

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    You can try, but even if you could locate the correct seal, trying to retrofit it and get a watertight joint, may not be so easy.
     
  13. lostinthelight

    lostinthelight

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    I was thinking on the line of it just looked a pig of a place to cut,chamfer clean and apply solvent around the pipe.
     
  14. Hugh Jaleak

    Hugh Jaleak

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    It is, and I would be extremely careful to make sure there was sufficient solvent weld on the section you cant see. Or just shove a ring seal coupling on there to extend the pipe again.
     
  15. lostinthelight

    lostinthelight

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    I'm sure you would be careful Hugh, but not everyone has the necessary skills!
     
  16. Hugh Jaleak

    Hugh Jaleak

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    It was meant as advice rather than trying to be cocky. If you can get hold of a small mirror that helps to see the underside of the pipe, rather than working blind. I am more concerned to be honest about you attempting to replace the ring seal in the existing pipe, but having said that, you appear to have a moulded socket there rather than the type where the seal is placed on the end of the socket and the 'lip' is than snapped on to hold the seal in place.

    Having fought a losing battle with the latter type on several occasions before, I wouldnt want to risk it under a bathroom floor!
     
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  17. Madrab

    Madrab

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    Ultimately the ring seal end could be cut clean and square from the inside using a dremel with a cutting blade, or using a wire saw, then a piece of 80grit to debur/round out the end, then use a double socket solvent coupler. Apply the cement on the inside of the socket rather than on the cut male end of the pipe (not ideal I know) but the excess glue that would be pushed up into the pipe could easily be cleaned from the inside to ensure there's no build up. If it's twisted as it's fitted then I am sure that coverage would be more than enough to make a sound joint.

    The other pieces (Toilet branch and solvent waste adapter) could be built up prior to it being added to the main pipe and new solvent socket so would then be easy to glue and push into place.
     
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