Extending IKEA lighting cables.

[ElBlanco]

Hi all,

Over the bank holiday weekend I've been installing some IKEA lighting (their "Format" range) on top of some display cabinets. These lights come with their own cabling system so you can daisy-chain a few together, but as usual I have a few questions to make sure the way I've done this is OK.

1. The lighting was going to be plugged into a socket on the wall against which the cabinets are placed, however with the plug in the socket the cabinet was pushed out too much. To solve this, I replaced the socket with an FCU. I then chopped the plug from the lighting cable and wired this into the FCU and installed a 3A fuse. My question here is that the lighting cable was only 2-core (blue and brown) and didn't have an earth, so I didn't have an earth cable to wire into the earthing connector in the FCU - is this OK ?!

2. The lighting cable just wasn't long enough, but it's not easy to extend since it has a custom connector at the end not in the FCU which plugs into the light on top of the cabinet, and it also has an in-line switch between the connector and the FCU to turn the lights on and off. To solve this I chopped the cable after the switch (i.e. between the switch and the custom connector) and crimped in an extra piece of cable using 4 back-to-back red crimps. My question here is are crimp connections OK for a 3A lighting circuit or am I running the risk of a house fire ?!

3. I think I'll also have to extend the "daisy chain" cable used to connect from the first light to the second in the same "crimping" manner as above - is it OK to have so many crimps in the circuit ?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Cheers,
Chris

 

[JameZZ]

1. - That's fine, the lights are class ll double insulated so do not need an earth.

2. - Don't quite understand, what piece of wire have you connected to the FCU? Could you not just add a new piece of cable from the FCU, then connect that flex to the light cable behind the switch... - They are 230V lights are they and don't have a transformer?

Also, chock blocks are better for flexible cable, and you should put them (what ever connection method) in a chock box (or use a proper cable connector). http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CHOCBOX.html

3.) IMO, chock blocks or cable connectors are better, also they have strain relief.

 

[ElBlanco]

1. great, thanks.

2. Yeah, I guess I could have done that, but I wanted the cable to the switch to be one piece of cable as it's on display. After the switch the cable is hidden behind a cabinet, so you don't see the joins as they're behind the cabinet.
The lights are these ones:
http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/catalog/products/00149553
So I guess the transformer is in the metal box you see the light coming out of (there's cooling vents in the box, so I assume there's a transformer in there . . .)

Are chock blocks and choc boxes required by the regulations or will crimped connections wrapped in electricians tape suffice ? If the chock blocks / boxes are required I'll need to re-visit the wiring . . .

Thanks,
Chris

 

[ban-all-sheds]

will crimped connections wrapped in electricians tape suffice ?

No.

Nothing wrong with crimping, but tape won't do in place of cable sheathing.

So you will need to revisit the wiring - cut the crimps away, slip heat-shrink tubing over each of the conductors and a larger dia length over the whole cable. Re-crimp, slide the tubing over the crimps, shrink, slide the larger piece over the lot, shrink.

OR - post a photo of the connector. It's quite possible that someone will recognise it and you'll be able to buy a rewirable one so you can do away with any kind of joint.

And do I gather that you've got a loose length of flex coming out of a flush CU, with a switch in it? Sounds a bit naff - wouldn't concealed wiring with the lights controlled by a wall switch have been better?

 

[JameZZ]

Is this the cable your using at the start then?
http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/catalog/products/90121413

And the cable you have added is between the switch and light?

You have also cut the 3 pin plug off and connected that to the FCU?

If so, that's all fine, and it's ok to extend the flex where ever.

I don't know about the regs regarding crimps & tape but its a bit messy and tape makes it all sticky, a cable connector would be better IMO.
Also, what room are you doing this is in?

 

[ElBlanco]

Hi ban-all-sheds,

When you say "no" is this because this isn't the way you would do it, or because this is against regulations ? I've taped each "core" individually, and then taped it all together.

Regarding the picture of the connector, here's a link to the cable in question:

http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/catalog/products/90121413

I doubt you'll be able to get the IKEA connectors elsewhere though

Yes, you're right, I do have a loose length of cable coming out of a flush FCU with a switch in it. Ideally I'd have liked what you suggest with the wall switch, but it was just too much work / expense and the FCU is hidden down the side of the cabinet anyways, so you don't really see the cable coming out of it . . .

Thanks,
Chris

 

[ElBlanco]

Hi JameZZ,

Yes, that's exactly the cable I'm using, and you've got it spot on - the cable I've added is between the switch and the light connector and I've cut off the 3-pin plug and wired it into an FCU.

Thanks for the confirmation all is OK

This is in the study - the lights are on top of a couple of book cases.

Thanks,

Chris