External floodlight

[securespark]

Wonder why there is a permanent live at the fitting?

How many cables connect to the light? Just the one from the PIR? Or does another cable run from the light to another position?

But yes, you could connect the conductors through to the light.

You can use the existing box if you can find a replacement lid for it.

 

[koontz]

Just the one cable from pir to floodlight, how do I connect it up, can I bypass the pir and just use the 3 inputs that go into pir and then just 3 into floodlight, at this stage I don't know what to do.

 

[securespark]

Yes, you could use the PIR's terminals as a means of jointing the conductors.

But those blue conductors need cleaning up and remaking using a new connector.

Please make sure there is earth continuity to the light.

And disconnect the yellow from the PIR.

 

[koontz]

Could I just leave the connections in the pir as is, and just connect live, ground, neutral to floodlight and tape the other 2, would this work.

 

[securespark]

I'm a bit worried that the blue conductors look corroded or oxidised and they could do with having their ends snipped off and the connections remade in a new block.

If you leave the connections as is, the connection may eventually go bad.

Also, if the PIR is left connected to the supply, it'll still be switching (even if the light is no longer connected to the output) when something is detected.

So, to be sure you understand which wires to connect at the light end, which wire will you connect to what terminal in the new light?

The new light has a built-in passive, doesn't it?

 

[koontz]

Yes it does.

 

[koontz]

Anymore suggestions on what to do here, should I just get another junction box, get rid of standalone pir and connect straight to floodlight and put tape around the wires that is don't need?.

 

[terryplumb]

You could replace the cable from junction box to light fitting with three core cable , (live ,neutral and earth)that's all you need to connect to the supply cable ,and floodlight ,and get rid of the PIR altogether ,not needed as the new fitting has an integral one.
You could of course just run a new cable from from the fused connection unit all the way to the light fitting.
By the way the fan that you told us is fed from the switched ,fused connection unit ,was that working fine before the outside light issues ???

 

[koontz]

Yes the fan was working before all this, I have taken fuses out of both sockets, am I not right in that if I disconnect the yellow and black from the pir and the floodlight and just connect live, neutral, ground it should work?.

 

[terryplumb]

Looking at the terminal connector of the new light fitting , it appears that only three conductors fit into it ,and it then makes a watertight seal to the fitting. I am struggling to see how the additional two ( unnecessary) Conductors can be terminated ??
As somebody wrote above ,the PIR wiring needs to be taken out of the equation ,a new terminal block used ,and the conductors ( particularly the blue ) cut / re trimmed as the copper looks tarnished.
The supply cable from house to pir enclosure needs to be tested to ascertain / identify which is live , and neutral and the CPC ( earth Conductor)is intact / actually connected to earth. As someone mentioned earlier, colours count for nowt if they are not connected correctly.
Simple voltage testing with your multimeter would establish what's what.

 

[koontz]

Good news is my fan/light works in conservatory, so next step is just disconnecting the 2 wires going to the pir, and then hooking up the other 3 wires to the floodlight thanks for your help

 

[koontz]

Just came to tell everyone who helped I have now sorted this many thanks, I took of the old standalone pir and got new junction box, and have simply cut the 2 redundant wires, all working though I'm not 100% sure about how we fed the cable into new junction box, instead of the old screw glands it has rubber gromets which I have simply punctured and fed the cable through.