False ceiling stud frame w/halving joints

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Hi All,
I've been doing a lot of research on here and found some great info (for which many thanks to all!)on a small false-ceiling project for a galley kitchen with the intention of fitting halogen spots.

I've now got the gist of attaching a frame to the walls at about 250mm down from existing ceiling (can't attach anything direct to concrete ceiling in 1920's block) but was wondering whether I could attach the joists to the perimeter frame using what we used to be taught in woodwork classes 40+ years ago (!) were called halving joints...ie a notch cut into the perimeter frame of half it's depth and a corresponding cut on the joist so that the two sit together. Apologies for the description and I might be talking about something that went out with the ark! The 'span' across the room is between 1200 - 1600mm (there is a section with a small alcove) and I was going to follow advice here of using 2 x 3 timbers for all parts and then plasterboard attached to the stud frame.

Main question's are: would this be a good approach? would it weaken the joints too much?

Many thanks for any help!

Mark
 
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That would be fine, Mark - put some PVA glue in the joints when you are sure they will be permanent.
John :)
35 years a woodwork teacher :p
 
Thanks very much Burnerman....see...at least some pupils were listening back in the 70s!!
 
Whilst i admire your classical wood-working approach it would be simpler to cut the timbers so you have a nice snug butted fit, tap them into place then skew screw into the frame.

I am also assuming everyone has a powered screwdriver nowadays as well!
 
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Agree with nosey, butt joint , if your halving joints are cut badly it will allow ceiling to buckle and it's also a lot of pointless extra work and a waste of timber since only a few noggins are required.
 
That would be fine, Mark - put some PVA glue in the joints when you are sure they will be permanent.
John :)
35 years a woodwork teacher :p
Halving joints = half the strength - spent 5 years winding up woodwork teachers - `65 - `70 :mrgreen:
 
when ever i have done this i use 2x2 for the perimeter,then 3x2 for the ceiling joists notched over the 2x2 then skew nailed/screwed,this way i can also plot my joists over the whole of the ceiling without any problems.
as for any noggins then they are just butt jointed.
if the span is large then you have to think about hangers to stop it from sagging.
 
That would be fine, Mark - put some PVA glue in the joints when you are sure they will be permanent.
John :)
35 years a woodwork teacher :p
Halving joints = half the strength - spent 5 years winding up woodwork teachers - `65 - `70 :mrgreen:

That must make us nigh on the same age......its sounds like you should have had a sound thrashing, Nige :p

Mind you, I bet you didn't work your ticket as much as me :mrgreen:

John :D
 
....a sudden family crisis has stopped me from saying so earlier!

All very helpful advice - will post results!

Thanks again...
 

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