Summer house ground to a hult

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Hi. This is my first post so please be kind.
So, the plan is a sunmer house with a shed area. Total length 7.3m by 3m. Sitting on a concrete slab. Max height 2.5m with a sloping roof with over hangs. Stud walls to be 3x2 insulated with rockwool. Cladding on outside probably plaster boarded inside. Insulated in the floor frame with 11 or 18mm ply as subfloor then laminated floor covering. Cold roof, insulated and boarded..
So far, I dug 20cm of dirt built a frame filled with type 1 whackered down this is about 70mm, laid a membrane then had 4 tonne of ready mix delivered. Me and the wife running back and forth with two barrows. Then did my best to level the concrete. Spending the next 4 days watering the surface etc. The slab is pretty good. Then had the floor frame wood delivered. 4x2 at 3.6m lengths C24. Was led to believe these won't rot. Built my frame spacing the joists at 24" thinking ahead for the 8x4 ply. I built two frames made sure totally square by measuring corners fixed them together and checked again. Thing is the frame or a few of the noggings are sitting on some slightly raised bits of the slab. And for some reason the slab seems to have a low area in one corner. Iv toyed with the idea of putting some of my off cuts under the floating frame to support it and keep it all level. A builder dropped off all the rockwool and some plum slate iv bought off him yesterday. I asked him to take a quick look. He said iv done a pretty good job. On the frame. I walked on it and he could see it flexing but I think it was because or the raised areas not so much of the low part which he said is a couple of inches lower. Bit disheartened because of the hard work done so far. He said what he'd recommend is keep the frame but use it as the roof structure. Raise my shutter boards which are still in situ mix up a slurry of 3 to 1 and screed over the top to make sure its totally level then build a brick 2 courses high i skin thick. Then use 6x2 joists in hangers. Then build the stud walls. He's very helpful he explained how to calculate the amount of bricks etc. He said that the timbers on the slab will rot after 2 or 3 years. And should not be touching the cement. Iv never built a wall im pretty good with my hands but wondered if just sliding a brick under each corner and at every joint of my existing frame with some muck to hold them in place and build up the brick at the low point would suffice.

Sorry for the long message, wanted to explain as accurately as possible.

Any help or advice would be much appreciated. I'm going to try and attach photos.
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Are you aware of the building control and planning requirements for outbuildings over 15m2 located within a meter of your boundary?

for the groundworks you could have run the DPM up the walls and integrated it in to the build. This would have protected the timber.

mid the slab insulated? Did you install a dpm?
 
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Hi.
Thanks for your reply, in answer to your first question I am roughly 21.9m squared so under the 30m square limit before planning needs submitting.

Your idea about running the dpm up the walls, i don't understand what you mean, i have not built the stud walls yet. There will be a vapour barrier inside and a moisture resistant covering between the stud work and the exterior cladding or whatever i use. Builder paper is the plan.

Lastly, I laid a membrane between the type1 and the cement.
 
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