False Wall in Bathroom

[kevinwebster83]

Hi,

I'm looking to build a slim false wall in my bathroom to hide pipework for a new shower installation. The wall will also hide a waste pipe from the basin.

My question is, what materials should i use to construct this wall? I'm planning on using some 2x2 for the overall frame, but am unsure as to whether to use plywood, plasterboard or cement aquaboard sheets for the wet side of the wall.

Please can someone help?

Thanks in advance, Kevin

 

[Burnerman]

Cement aquaboard would be my choice....plasterboard absorbs water, and ply doesn't like being tiled over unless its properly sealed.
John

 

[kevinwebster83]

Hi John,

Thanks for your reply. I probably should have mentioned that i'll be using plywood on the floor anyway as i'm wanting to put some tiles down and the existing floor is just floorboards. This will get sealed properly.

What thickness of aquaboard would you recommend? I've used 6mm before, would this be suitable?

Kev

 

[Richard C]

Adhesive manufacturers & British Standards recommend 15mm minimum for over boarding but 12mm is usually sufficient & it should be screwed down every 6 inches into the joists not just into the top of the existing floor boards; be careful of pipes & cables. Use WBP not ordinary ply & seal the back only with an SBR sealer; do not seal the tiling face until you read your chosen tiling adhesive manufacturer’s instructions; some specifically exclude sealing before tiling & it can cause adhesion problems. Use a quality trade flexible powdered cement based adhesive not tub mix & flexible grout, steer clear of the DIY shed stuff, it’s generally crap.

You should use 12mm boards not 6mm but, personally, I would be using a decent cement based tile backer board in a wet area, even moisture resistant (aqua) plaster board will eventually break up if water gets in there. Take some time out & visit the tiling forum, read the sticky & browse through the archive to avoid making any potentially disastrous mistakes.

 

[kevinwebster83]

Richard,

Thanks for your comments.

I've typically gone for the flexible powder adhesive over the tub stuff. I think BAL was the manufacturer last time plus it was rapid set and worked a treat - i'm inclined to use the same stuff again.

Good advice on using 12mm backerboard and not 6mm, as i was going to use the latter.

As for the floor, i was thinking either 9mm or 12mm WBP. Just have to make sure that the floor boards beneath are screwed down well, as at the moment they're in bad shape due to water damage from previous botched plumbing jobs - not by me, may i add.

Kev

 

[Richard C]

I've typically gone for the flexible powder adhesive over the tub stuff. I think BAL was the manufacturer last time plus it was rapid set and worked a treat - i'm inclined to use the same stuff again.

I've used nothing but BAL for several years & IMO you won’t find better products but there are others equally as good. Shop around for the best prices but on-line usually has minimum order if you’re to avoid costly delivery charges. Local tile stockists will usually give you a keen price but if you use Topps, go in some cement covered jeans & try to bully then into giving you trade discount; will work in some branches but not all, depending on how convincing you are.

Good advice on using 12mm backerboard and not 6mm, as i was going to use the latter.

Always use 12mm; but I really would advise you go for a waterproof tile backer board in wet areas rather than the Gypsum board unless you tank it.

As for the floor, i was thinking either 9mm or 12mm WBP. Just have to make sure that the floor boards beneath are screwed down well, as at the moment they're in bad shape due to water damage from previous botched plumbing jobs - not by me, may i add.

If you want to avoid problems, 12mm is the minimum really; as I said the recommended standard is 15mm. Personally, I prefer to rip out the old floor regardless & replace with 18mm (min) - 25mm WBP ply, depending on assessment of the floor. I can’t afford failures (never had one yet) & that will more or less guarantee you’ll have no problems in the future; it also avoids problems with large a height difference at the door threshold when overboading.

 

[kevinwebster83]

Richard,

Good advice with the rip up the existing floor boards. I may well do that, as i think there is little or no insulation beneath them. Like you said, adding extra height to the floor will also be problematic - plus it won't look good when walking into the bathroom from the landing and having to step up.

I'll give the dirty jeans trick a go and see how i get on.

Thanks for the excellent advice

Kev