fascia boards

[stevegreen]

When fitting timber fascia boards how much higher than the tops of the rafter feet should they be fastened to take the slate roof . Is it better to use nails (maybe lost heads- to make painting easier i.e. no screw heads to fill) or screws.
Also what material is best to use for soffits

All advice welcomed

 

[noseall]

genuine 'slates' need very little kick whereas some concrete interlocking tiles need about 50mm.

slates should be ok off about 30mm.

you could always temporarily fix a couple of courses of short lath and dry run a couple of slates and manually lift them then measure.

over do it rather than under do it as the latter looks shoite. so long as the slates don't back fall.

are you fitting overfascia vents?

 

[stevegreen]

Thanks for reply, No I'm not using overfascia vents - any thoughts on best material for sofits? would external ply be suitable or maybe silicate board possibly.

 

[noseall]

we tend to use 9.5mm wbp ply.

 

[^woody^]

I don't like ply anywhere near the eaves. Just one bit of water can lead to it delaminating and requiring a whole new section.

Asbestalux or similar or plastic would be preferable

 

[noseall]

we tend to use 9.5mm wbp ply.

for the soffits that is!

regular planed timber for the fascias, as these are usually size-compatible with the plastic capping fascias.