Faulty ACL Lifestyle Mid Position Valve?

[eifion1967]

Our HW is working fine by not CH. We have a 3port ACL valve as above connected to one pump. The pump's okay as it works for the HW, thermostat is okay so narrowed it down to valve. I can get it to work by moving over the lever/latch and heating now working but I obviously now think I need to replace this valve?

Now I've moved the lever over it hasn't moved back as I expected but at least we're warm! I assumed it would move back once the thermostat switched off the heating but it didn't.

Is it possible to just replace the electrical part, rather than remove the whole valve and drain system etc, if so will any ACL 3 port valve do the trick or do I need to find a direct replacement?

I assume the only problem we'll have until it's replaced is that when the HW is on and not the CH then the CH will heat as well?

 

[Agile]

You can replace just the head only.

However I think that there are two different types so you woulf have to be sure you had the right one.

Its probably just the motor that has failed. In theory you can just change the motor but on the ACL that looks very tedious indeed.

Tony

 

[Birmingham_Spanner]

I have on old (knackered) Drayton Lifestyle mid pos valve (pt no 679H340-3OLO) Just taken a look to see if the head is removable and for the life of me I can't see how. Maybe a newer version is. The Synchron motor inside doesn't look too bad to replace though and for not much more than a tenner is probably worth a go. At worst you will have a spare motor if you end up replacing body and head with say a Honeywell.

I would be inclined to think that the valve body has gone though (probably corroded) if it won't move back to HW only on the spring mechanism. This is where removable heads are good because you can take them off and move the valve spindle by hand to feel if it is free or not.

Happy draining.

 

[ollski]

I assumed it would move back once the thermostat switched off the heating but it didn't.

You will probably find yourself getting 50 odd volts all over the place due to a faulty board in the actuator, enough to hold the valve on when turned off.
The vast majority of these valves don't have removable actuators only those installed in the last 3 or 4 years.

 

[nickso]

all lifestyle valves have removeable heads, just some are far easier than others.

the older ones need to be stripped down (5 mins with one screwdriver) and the backplate for the head comes off by 2 screws into the valve body. the spindle is easily accessible without removing the backplate after the motor and mount are removed (again 2 screws).

the spindles do get sticky and some wd40 or fan oil frees them nicely.

 

[ollski]

true, still can't replace old with new of course.(actuators)

 

[nickso]

yeh most parts are not interchangeable between the two different models.

 

[eifion1967]

true, still can't replace old with new of course.(actuators)

Hi, thanks for all advice, does this mean that if I buy the new version with the easily removable head that it won't screw into the valve body? Just hoping to not drain the system to replace the whole valve.

Cheers

 

[nickso]

true, still can't replace old with new of course.(actuators)

Hi, thanks for all advice, does this mean that if I buy the new version with the easily removable head that it won't screw into the valve body? Just hoping to not drain the system to replace the whole valve.

Cheers

no. the new actuators with the release button on the side will not fit the old valve body. neither will the majority of parts in the new valve fit the old one.

i still think you may be able strip and rebuild this valve to get it working. the only things that are really terminal are the spring posts breaking and the plastic lever snapping at the side. (the latter only because you dont have spares)

 

[wizzi]

true, still can't replace old with new of course.(actuators)

Not strictly true. Its a hassle i'll grant you but will save a cpl of £ and if you dont have the ability to drain down yourself then could be the difference between a diy job or not.

Basically you strip the new one down and drill 2 holes in the base where the mounts go. Then fit it using 2 20mm m3.5 screws and space it out with either washers like i did or a spacer. then reassemble the same way you would the old one.

I did have to remove some of the pcb with a multitool to allow the m3.5's screw head to fit properly, if i'd have countersunk the holes i drilled then this wouldnt have been needed.

Anyway £40 and fixed.

 

[D_Hailsham]

Basically you strip the new one down and drill 2 holes in the base where the mounts go. Then fit it using 2 20mm m3.5 screws and space it out with either washers like i did or a spacer. then reassemble the same way you would the old one.

Somehow I don't think the OP has waited over six years for that suggestion.

 

[wizzi]

Basically you strip the new one down and drill 2 holes in the base where the mounts go. Then fit it using 2 20mm m3.5 screws and space it out with either washers like i did or a spacer. then reassemble the same way you would the old one.

Somehow I don't think the OP has waited over six years for that suggestion.

No i agree, however google takes you to this page so the next person with the problem will get the information

 

[AndyGlasgow2023]

@D_Hailsham Yes! I am that next person and grateful for the information.