Filling Loop problem and water leaks! HELP please..

[jmh1]

Hi

Just tried to put some inhibitor into my combi boiler via the filling loop. Checked the connections and the only place the adaptor nut (that goes onto the can) would fit it just prior to the non-return valve (ie without using the actual loop). It went in fine, but when I tried to take the nut off the one way valve didn't seem to work and every where got sprayed with my can of X100!!! I managed to get the filling look back on but not before it had sprayed over the boiler plug and fuse, which has now short-circuited the system and the boiler now does not have power to it.

Where did I go wrong? I checked I was filling it in the direction of the arrow on the non-return valve, and I checked which pipe was which (ie cold water mains inlet and boiler loop). Did I just have a dodgy non-return valve, and if so I guess I need to drain the system to fit a new one.

jmh (covered in X100 inhibitor and not pleased with herself!!)

 

[kevplumb]

probably it has been known

 

[bengasman]

You can't change the check valve without draining the system. I am assuming now that you want to stay dry.
Normally, you can let the spur just dry out, but I have no idea if the residue of the inhibitor is conductive; you really should check this.

 

[jmh1]

Yep, I want to stay dry. That inhibitor stinks as well as being rather expensive. Grrrrr!

Oh well, was going to power flush the system in a couple of weeks anyway so I can check and replace it then. The inhibitor was just to tie the system over as I've had a few parts replaced on it and I was worried the inhibitor had been diluted by new water being added.

Still annoyed it didn't work as advertised.

 

[bengasman]

I would strongly advise against doing the powerflush yourself. Not only does it take more than just sticking the machine on, if you do it wrong, you can do quite a bit of damage.
Unless the system is very badly blocked, you're better of doing a couple of chemical treatments.

 

[jmh1]

A plumber/boiler engineer friend is going to power flush it. Unfortunately he has just gone on holiday for 20 days, otherwise it would have been him that was putting the inhibitor in (and getting wet).

Thanks for the advice though - I can see why a power flush could do bad things in the wrong hands (and I only wonder where I'd get the water that time).

 

[jmh1]

And the sytem is pretty bad - I've had 3 (or 4 - I can't remember) new heat exchangers due to crap in the system. I think it definately needs a good flush out. Think it is all sitting in the bottom of the radiators as they seem to be colder at the bottom than the top.

 

[Agile]

It sounds as if the plate HE of your combi has been blocked. That only takes a small amount of dirt.

They can be cleaned and dont have to be replaced.

The correct solution is power flushing but that does have to be done properly and few operators do !

A magnetic filter like a Magnaclean might be a compromise solution instead of power fulshing which, even if done properly, will never get everything out, perhaps 90% though.

Tony

 

[jmh1]

I've been considering a MagnaClean filter - are they really as good as the publicity suggests. Do I still need to Power Flush the system first, or will the Magna Clean filter suck it all out?

Thanks,

 

[bengasman]

Filters are fitted to keep the system clean, not to clean them. The magnaclean works very well, but build quality leaves to be desired.
Don't do the powerflush yourself.