Filling old hinge cut outs

[bsr]

Hi, how do you fill hinge cut outs in door frames?Mine are glossed over. Polyfilla is weak and cracks when so shallow and over such a large area. I could use two pack? Would you score or sand away the paint?

I've read about infilling with shims of wood - what do you use for a 2mm deep hinge rebate?

Thanks

 

[lostinthelight]

Hi, how do you fill hinge cut outs in door frames?Mine are glossed over. Polyfilla is weak and cracks when so shallow and over such a large area. I could use two pack? Would you score or sand away the paint?

I've read about infilling with shims of wood - what do you use for a 2mm deep hinge rebate?

Thanks

Glue a thicker piece in and plane it down close then fill and sand the join between new and old wood, always worked for me.
As you've already filled before you'd need to chisel out back to fresh wood so may not be suitable for you on this occasion

 

[denso13]

Hi, how do you fill hinge cut outs in door frames?

Car body filler is good, I've used it several times, goes solid in minutes and can be sanded smooth.

I'm sure I got the tip on here several years ago.

 

[bsr]

These particular cut outs haven't been filled yet but someone has glossed over them.

@lostinthelight what do you use for the shims? YouTubers seem to make them with table saws. I've got a power plane and a rasp but not a block plane, so not sure how I'd plane down in place.

If I use two pack, will that stick to gloss or do I have to burn/chisel back to bare wood?

 

[lostinthelight]

Ive used table saw,chopsaw with care, and plunge tracksaw for long pieces.
You can pare down proud shims with a wide sharp chisel but if not confident to get it close youd just as well fill to start with. As said, if you rough up the gloss a little car body filler will be fine.
Edit:
Not difficult with care using a chopsaw,even posible with a handsaw if you can be bothered

 

[blup]

A combination of shim and filler, or just filler like this

https://www.chemfix.co.uk/products/...imbabuild-epoxy-wood-repair/timbabuild-erc10/



Blup

 

[bsr]

Ok thanks, if two pack filler will do the job then I'll scrape up the gloss with a chisel and get out the Ronseal High Performance.

Thanks for your help

 

[KenGMac]

I recall seeing in B&Q that they stock thin flat "strip wood" as I recall it is in the mouldings section

Ken.

 

[cwhaley]

You've probably already done it, but I cut a piece of ply to the same shape as the gap and split a single layer from it to fill the gap. Primed and painted over.

 

[joe384]

The first time I did this on some hinge cutouts I filled with ronseal wood filler but the results were crap.

Then for the latch hole I glued a plywood in place then a combination of planing / filling / sanding and I got it super smooth and flat.

If you have some very thin plywood it can be scored and then broken off (which is sometimes easier when you are dealing with small pieces of wood)

 

[cwhaley]

The first time I did this on some hinge cutouts I filled with ronseal wood filler but the results were crap.

Then for the latch hole I glued a plywood in place then a combination of planing / filling / sanding and I got it super smooth and flat.

If you have some very thin plywood it can be scored and then broken off (which is sometimes easier when you are dealing with small pieces of wood)

I'm sure I'd just said that above

 

[Nigel_Cro]

Come at it from the opposite direction - get a piece of timber that is roughly the right thickness - any of the big DIY outlets will have stripwood that will work, then cut the rebate in the door frame to a depth that fits, all you need for this tool wise is a sharp chisel - leave it 1/2mm proud and sand it down. Advantages include getting a good wood to wood mating surface for gluing, a couple of panel pins and the job is done.

 

[bsr]

Update here:
https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/will-this-work-power-planer.583694/#post-5131063

It worked but mitre saw was a bad idea and I was advised not to use ply.