T
thatbloke
Is there any kind of tried and tested method to do this? The joists are Elm, laid flat and have gone bowl shaped.
T
thatbloke
Because the joists were laid flat (apparently they came off the pit saw warped) over the last few hundred years they sank into a bowl shape. Also , because the house has moved around a lot its sank in one corner so the floor is very uneven.
I need to replace some of the floor boards , about 90% of them had rotted at some point and had been replaced by some thin modern t&g, i need to replace these with oak like the originals, the new boards will be an inch thick and around 18 inches wide.
Firing means adding strips of wood to the top of the joists to level them off.
I am just wondering if there is any tried and tested procedure to doing this.
I need to replace some of the floor boards , about 90% of them had rotted at some point and had been replaced by some thin modern t&g, i need to replace these with oak like the originals, the new boards will be an inch thick and around 18 inches wide.
Firing means adding strips of wood to the top of the joists to level them off.
I am just wondering if there is any tried and tested procedure to doing this.
Ah, you mean firring.
If the timbers are cupped, or have bent under load, whichever you mean, are you sure they have stopped moving? It will be difficult to make firring pieces to fit the top curved surface.
My question about the side edges of the boards relates to an alternative approach. Are they?
If the timbers are cupped, or have bent under load, whichever you mean, are you sure they have stopped moving? It will be difficult to make firring pieces to fit the top curved surface.
My question about the side edges of the boards relates to an alternative approach. Are they?
I've done this kind of thing and a it's a horrible job in all honesty, boring as buggery. Use lines and straight edges or even a laser level. Thin strips cut roughly to shape and finishe off with an electric planer, and allow for new blades as you probably end up hitting a nail or screw at some point.
I would , however, advise against doing too good a job. I've levelled old floors and quite often it loses a lot of the character that older buildings have, a dip ,bump or sloping bit isn't really anything to be worried about in a house that's two or three hundred years old.
I would , however, advise against doing too good a job. I've levelled old floors and quite often it loses a lot of the character that older buildings have, a dip ,bump or sloping bit isn't really anything to be worried about in a house that's two or three hundred years old.
You could bolt new timbers to the sides of the old, flush with each end and the middles will take care of themselves. You wouldn't need to use the original joist size timber, 4" or 6"x2" would be fine.
hope this helps.
hope this helps.
T
thatbloke
Side edges of the boards arnt straight, nothing really is straight. Not having a new floor completely flat isn't a problem , in fact I would prefer it, like you say a flat floor in a wonky house looks odd. Bolting timber to the joists sounds like a good idea apart from two points, drilling holes in 4-5 hundred year old joists to accept bolts is sacrilege and I would assume not easy as the timber will be close to petrified at this point and also my joists are only about 5 inches tall in between which I have to get a lath and plaster infill ceiling. Under any other circumstances that would be a great idea.
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
