Fit Hive 2 to my Vaillant ecoTEC plus 837 - please help!

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Hi, I wonder if anyone can help me. I've had a Hive 2 for a while now, but the person who was to install it (a neighbour) hasn't been able to do it yet so I'm keen to do it myself if I can. I know how to isolate the boiler etc.

Currently, my set-up is:
Boiler = Vaillant ecoTEC plus 837
Controller =Vaillant 360f

I've attached images of the set-up diagrams for the existing controller and the Hive 2, and also the inside of the boiler. Can anyone tell me how to wire this?

I've Googled this and one result said to use the L/N/3/4 points of the boiler, mapping to L/N/1 (common)/3(Heating on) of the Hive 2. There already is a wire in the L/N points though, so do I need some kind of loop?

In the existing set-up, the two wires connected to the controller are the +/1 BUS connectors on the left.
 

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The advice is correct.

Remove the eBus wires on the left.

PS: Whoever originally connected the mains to your boiler has crudely carved a hole through the PCB box making it non-water resistant. Unbelievable bodgery. You should use the cable glands to the left.
 
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The advice is correct.

Remove the eBus wires on the left.

PS: Whoever originally connected the mains to your boiler has crudely carved a hole through the PCB box making it non-water resistant. Unbelievable bodgery. You should use the cable glands to the left.

Great, thanks a lot. Can you tell me what i do about the N and L wires already there?

Also, if i go to maplin and tell them what im doing, will they give me the correct cable?
 
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The advice is correct.

Remove the eBus wires on the left.

PS: Whoever originally connected the mains to your boiler has crudely carved a hole through the PCB box making it non-water resistant. Unbelievable bodgery. You should use the cable glands to the left.

In all honesty I'd be more worried that a he's removed a sealed case and tests should be carried out when he's done which I'm assuming he can't carry out as he's not gas safe...
 
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Darn it, I'm all worried about the general set-up now. I've had a boiler service since installation, by a different person, and that didn't flag anything bad.
 
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You see this is why BG charge extra for installation
All we seem to be seeing now is hive and nest related threads asking how to fit them.

Anyways, Plug the hub into your router first as it will likely want to update.
Then disconnect the ebus wires to the vrt.
Then Use a 4 core wire, 5 core if you fancy having an earth although not nessesary, to feed the hive receiver. Remove the link from 3-4 on boiler and wire the receiver common to 3 and the call to 4, live to live neutral to neutral.

Power up and press the button on the receiver to check it works.
Hopefully the hub is still flashing green if not power it down and back on again.

Then stick some batteries in the thermostat and it should all connect up. Lastly stick the thermostat backplate on the wall and attach the stat. Check it works then log onto your hive account and set it up.
 
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Whilst as a domestic & commercial RGI I'm not going to condone a non-qualified person taking the case off, I'm not aware of any tests we are mandated do specifically to check the lid is refitted correctly afterwards on this model (other than look at it)?

How can we expect to be trusted by Joe Public if we overstate the procedures we follow?
 
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Great, thanks a lot. Just to be clear, as I already have wires from the neutral and live in the boiler (not for the existing wireless controller) do I leave these there so I'd have two wires going in to these terminals?

For what's it's worth, I'd normally have paid for installation without any quibbling but as my electrician neighbour said that he's do it I didn't book it. I've been waiting for him for two months, and as I've got this far I'd like to have a go myself now.
 
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Yes go for it. If you've had the front off already, you have nothing to lose. The LNE cables going to the boiler remain, they just come from the mains, so make sure this is isolated first.

Get your L and N from Hive and insert them into the L & N terminals in the boiler - leaving the originals as they are.

No loose stragglers in the terminals and don't drop bits of copper wire into the PCB box or you will be buying a new one.

Run a new cable from 3 and 4 (removing link) to the Hive common and call (either way round).

Remove +- ebUS cable.

Put the lid back on ensuring the two shiney metal tabs at the bottom engage on the lower edge of the removable lid. Tighten the central philips screw.
 
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Thanks man. I like having a go at DIY but I wouldn't have started to mess about without knowing how to isolate the boiler, so the hopefully the bad things that can happen are not all that bad.

I'll get some cable in Maplin tomorrow. Then the tricky part is getting the cable from the top of the boiler to the fuse box inside....I need a long thin bendy stick I think.
 
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The external cables on an ecoTEC go through some grommets in the lower left hand side; if yours go any other route there may be extra holes drilled through the casing which is not kosher.
 
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As far as I can see, the wires from the fuse box go into a hole and then the cable linked to the existing controller comes out at the top. I can't really see what goes on behind the casing but I thought it was just metal pipes, bricks and some cable.

The more I think about it, I'm not sure how I can get the cable from that hole to the top of the boiler (y)
 

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Ah, I just had a brainwave. I could tape the new wire to the end of the existing ebus cable and make it smooth, then pull the same cable from the boiler end until it feeds through that hole.
 
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Not sure you should be doing this...

The cables (mains and eBus) simply pull through grommets bottom left. Your hands will do.
 
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The thing is the boiler is flush to the wall and above a toilet. The cables go from the fuse box into a hole through to behind the boiler, and then the next time I see them they are coming out of the top (from behind). With the boiler fitted where it is I can't think of another way to get the cable from the fuse box to where I want it, though it's quite possible I'm being totally dumb.
 

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