Fitting a Boiler Filter - struggling to find a spot....

[dishman]

About to refill my open vent system, with a heat only boiler.

As I have had it off for a while it seemed sensible to fit a filter. I was intending to fit a TF1 Omega as the build quality seemed pretty solid.

It seems to require a 70mm cut out to fit according to the instructions I have read online. The problem is....it seems nigh on impossible to find a straight length long enough.

It seems the fitter who did my system a while back loved to bend pipe.

Above the boiler....

The return feed is the one furthest to the left.



The vertical section has a curve....I may just be able to fit it here....without valves. Thoughts?


The only issue is there would be no space for the cut off valves each side, which appear to make flushing it more effective.

One valve would have to go here...but there is not enough space really.



So, I traced the pipes up through the ceiling....and technically once could go here at the bottom of this cupboard...



But again....not an ideal fit.....

Tracing the pipe further leads to the airing cupboard....



This is where it ends up....but again....not much of a straight/long enough section to fit it....

In that image it is the 22mm pipe in the middle, not the one that goes directly into the pump.

I could possibly fit it to the left of that T junction that has a gate valve. Would there be any issue with this location? Maybe too close to the floor for this type of filter (it seems to flush from below).

One question....why are the return/flow feeds connected by the small section of 15mm with a gate valve. Is it some kind of bypass for a certain situation? Just curious.


So....I was hoping it would be an easy fit on my own.....but if I can't find a suitable spot...and even though I could do it....I am less keen to start re-routing pipes....so may just call a pro.

 

[Mottie]

I have one fitted but I didn’t fit the valves - I bought the kit without valves. When I empty it, I just remove the magnet, let any particles sink to the bottom, open the tap a little and whoosh - all the crap comes out. Mind you I do have a sealed system so I have a bit of pressure to push it out. Pretty sure you'd get one to fit, without valves, on the return in your first picture. I have read on here that the valves are not full bore so can restrict the flow.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

I could possibly fit it to the left of that T junction that has a gate valve. Would there be any issue with this location? Maybe too close to the floor for this type of filter (it seems to flush from below).

Filter wise, I would suggest that as near as possible to the boiler and in the return is best, with the body hanging down vertically. (1) It looks as the first photo, situated in that short straight, below the dog-leg would be possible without valves. You might even consider replacing that dog-leg with a short bit of straight 22mm, which would make it easy.

(2) As above, but - Insert a 22mm valve as the return comes out of the ceiling and a your second valve where that compression joint is. Plenty of space for your filter then, below the first valve. You don't even need any more 22mm pipe, assuming you have a torch - Just spin the dog-leg 180 deg round in the elbow, so it dog-legs out from the wall, instead of into the wall. Sorry, I have no idea why the gate valve might have been put there.

(3) In the airing cupboard (if I'm looking at the correct pipe), It could go where that 22mm/15mm T is with the T moved over, and the 15mm modified - subject to there being enough space below to flush it. You would certainly be able to put valves either side there.

I favour (2)! It is easier to get to drain it at height, than on the floor as in (3) and better for the boiler it being close.

My own TF1 is fitted similarly to 2, but lacks the valves. The space looked too tight to have valves, so none were fitted. Ever since when, I have wished valves had been installed. The drain valve on the TF1 uses its blanking plug as a valve key, which is very clumsy, easy to drop with the valve opened up resulting in a flood. I would suggest swapping that drain valve for something with a fixed lever to operate it.

 

[dishman]

Thanks for the replies thus far....certainly things to ponder...

I am still curious what that 15mm connection between the flow and return is doing.

 

[Madrab]

Manual bypass controlled by the gate valve

 

[dishman]

Thought it must be something like that. I therefore assume the gate valve should normally be closed and fitting a filter to the left of that branch would not be an issue.

 

[ianmcd]

I therefore assume the gate valve should normally be closed

Sorry but you assume wrong, if the gate valve was closed it wouldnt be a By-pass

 

[dishman]

Interesting.....when you said manual bypass I thought it meant for a temporary purpose.

What is it's function? Some kind of balancing for the system?

 

[ianmcd]

Interesting.....when you said manual bypass I thought it meant for a temporary purpose.

What is it's function? Some kind of balancing for the system?

No it allows circulation between the flow and return when zone valves and or TRVs close to allow the boiler to dissipate heat, an automatic one varies the flow rate , the one you have is manually set by the installer, its just a cheap way of doing it

 

[dishman]

If I did fit it in the location where the bypass valve was.....is it preferable to fit it after the bypass valve, which is to the right of that t junction on that picture. In this position it is probably only 2m from the return inlet on the boiler.

Or would the bypass junction have little effect on it?

It may bit a little tight for length space anyway so I would probably need to slightly re-route the T junction further to the left.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

As I think I suggested, relocate the T to the left. That way all water returning to the boiler is passed through the filter.

 

[ScottishGasMan]

If it was mine, Id cut the return and run it as shown above with the filter fitting on to the rise straight off of boiler and use the filter with no valves on it.

 

[dishman]

Thanks @ScottishGasMan , That does seem like a good option. Is there not the chance, without valves, that being able to control how it is flushed through becomes more tricky. Or even the chance that some of the crud gets flushed into the boiler.

I could put valves on each vertical and have the filter on the horizontal maybe?

I don't think the valves that come with it are much cop, and they are not full bore. So I would probably get my own 22m full bore lever valves.

 

[dishman]

Just a follow-up question:

I'm going to do your suggestion @ScottishGasMan , with one slight modification....I'm going to cut the verticle pipe further up so I have more height to work with. I have to take into account a cupboard that fits over the boiler.

But....my question is....If I swap out an elbow fitting for a straight coupler....can I reuse the existing olive. I intend to put a bit of boss white around it....but just wondered what most would do in that situation.

I guess there is enough pipe on that connection out of the boiler to cut the old olive off (assuming the olive it is impossible to remove) and add a new one...

Is the reuse option OK though?

 

[lightning]

I always put mb3 on the return on a open vent boiler