Fitting a new rad - 10mm to 15mm speedfit

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Hi,

I'm after a bit of advice with regard to fitting a new radiator. There used to be a radiator in place fed by 10mm (microbore?) pipe - forgive my terminology. I want to fit a new rad a run 15mm plastic from the send and return pipes of the main heating loop.

IMAG0023.jpg


I'm going to drain the system, cap off both 10mm pipes that run off the send and return and put in a speedfit 22mm - 15mm T into both send and return pipes and run my plastic speedfit from this.

I'm not sure how i'm going to be able to get an easy cut on the two 22mm pipes as they are so close together and it doesn't seem like I'll be able to twist the cutter all the way round without pulling the pipes apart. Is there a trick to do this?

Overall, any tips would be gratefully received.

Last thing - I've heard that you shouldn't use brass olives on compression joints on plastic pushfit (you should use softer copper). Is there any truth in this because i can't seem to be able to find any olives that look like anything other than brass.

Thanks for any help in advance,

Rob
 
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longdogs

Why not use 22-15mm speedfit tees and then 15mm copper up to your rad. You wont have to worry about olives or compression fittings then. When you have drained the system, cut the existing 10mm pipes near the fittings and you may be able to get enough movement in the pipes to use a cutter instead of a hack saw. A hack saw is not a good idea when using plastic push-fit. Make sure there's no solder left on the pipe ends that you intend to push into the push-fit fittings.
 
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Why not use 22-15mm speedfit tees and then 15mm copper up to your rad

I've no good answer to that. Is copper a better bet? I've no experience in any of this at all and i just thought that plastic would be easier for corners and whatnot.
 
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longdogs

You can still use 15mm plastic if you have to avoid any obstructions - The 22mm copper pipe can be fitted straight into speedfit fittings but the 15mm plastic pipe needs an INSERT before being inserted into the fitting fitting. Sorry, not trying to confuse you.
 
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It may be hard work. It looks like there's enough give on the pipes to get a pipeslice in. If you cut the notch in the joist a little wider there'll be plenty of space for compression fittings.
 
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Its only just twigged - but compression fittings under the floor?

Asking for trouble IMO.

I would solder it myself, but then again I solder everything unless it has to be take-apart-able :)

I got the impression that the OP wasn't too comfortable with soldering, but if he is, that would be the way to go.

Personally, I'd rather put a compression joint under the floor, with jointing compound, than a pushfit - my doubt as to the durability of plastic may be irrational though.
 
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I'm going to drain the system, cap off both 10mm pipes that run off the send and return

What with?


and put in a speedfit 22mm - 15mm T into both send and return pipes and run my plastic speedfit from this.

Earth continuity?

I'm not sure how i'm going to be able to get an easy cut on the two 22mm pipes as they are so close together and it doesn't seem like I'll be able to twist the cutter all the way round without pulling the pipes apart. Is there a trick to do this?

Yes - at the top of the runs where you have space - you may find it useful to remove another bit of cladding

Personally I'd advise you get a blowtorch and learn how to solder joints - you could disassemble the current 22 tees and replace the reducers with new ones 22-15 and take it from there.
 
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And by the way - do something about that cable that shares a notch with the pipe. i.e. move it away
 
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