Fitting a single oven and induction hob

31 Jan 2016
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United Kingdom
I've just bought a new single oven and induction hob, I have removed the old oven and there are 2 separate 3 pin sockets behind the oven linked to a fused oven switch. One has the oven plugged in and the other has the ignition for the gas hob plugged in. Can I attach a plug to both oven and hob and plug these in?
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Update: the induction hob is 7.2kw so won't run on a 13 amp plug, if I remove the 3 pin socket and add a oven connection plate will this be ok?
You'd be better asking in teh Electrics Uk section - I think you can ask a Moderator to move it but I can't remember how to do that.

you use the "report" link below

That really depends on the supply and cabling behind it.
IF the cabling is up to it, and the supply breaker/fuse is adequate, then yes. But you have to check that first.
For example, if the cable is 4 or 6mm² and fed with a 30A fuse or 32A breaker - yes. If it's a 2.5mm² cable with a 20A breaker - then no, your 30A hob will trip the breaker. But you need to determine the size of the supply cable, the installation method, then you can check its current rating and what supply fuse/breaker ratings can be used with it.

However, my limited experience with induction hobs often have the ability to set a maximum load on the supply. I assume that you can use some of the rings up to max power - but if you try and use all of them together then it'll scale back the power on all of them to limit what it draws from the supply. By setting this properly, you could use a 13A plug - but that's not ideal, you would be better checking to see if you can direct connect it.
Do you have aseparate circuit called something like "cooker" on your fuseboard?
What size fuse/MCB is protecting this circuit?

Update: the induction hob is 7.2kw so won't run on a 13 amp plug, if I remove the 3 pin socket and add a oven connection plate will this be ok?
Possibly, it depends on what is behind that socket and the answer to my question above.

I am not sure what you mean by
fused oven switch

Normally, there is a separate circuit from the fuseboard, this goes to a NON-FUSED switch. Please clarify.
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A lot of DIYers seam to call the 45A cooker switch a "fused oven switch"
I suppose that some of them, particularly in the past, are/were so physically large that one could forgive people for thinking that there surely had to be more than just a switch "in there"!

Kind Regards, John
Should we tell people who think that, that there is no fuse - or do we know what they mean?
In that case, probably both. We know what they mean, so there's no need to make a big deal out of it, or to delay replying to their question - but also point out (but without sarcasm, ridicule or worse) their misunderstanding (and the 'correct terminology').

Kind Regards, John
To be fair, that is logical - it's just a more modern version with "resettable fuses".
Indeed, but I'm sure that there are some her who would want to 'correct' it - after all, 'fuse' implies melting, and 'resettable fuses' are not meant to do that :)

Kind Regards, John
Thank you for your replies on my fuse box there is a 32 amp fuse that links to my cooker switch (not fused switch :)) am I right in thinking that if the cable from the cooker switch going to the 3 pin plug socket is 6mm I can swap this socket for a appliance connection plate?
If the 6mm cable extends to the cooker connection point, then yes, just swop one of teh single sockets for a cooker connection plate.

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