Fitting Hive to Ideal logic +35

[Dazzler_75]

Hi, I'm looking to fit hive single channel to my ideal logic +35. I currently have a Altech RF thermostat model ALTHC014. I understand this is just a rebranded Salus 500 RF.

I'm pretty confident of swapping the wires from the Altech to Hive. There's only 4 wires to the current set up, L, N, NO & COM. Im certain these are the connections to goto on the respected connections on Hive. My concern is the diagrams in the Altech manual mention either 230v switching or 24v switching. I assume this is inside the boiler this setup as both diagrams look the same in the Altech manual. All it says is, 'confirm boiler has external thermostat loop and is configured/NOT configured for 230v switching.

Could someone possibly tell me how to check if 24v or 230v switching or do I need to get a certified gas/boiler engineer out to sort.

 

[CBW]

If you’re opening up the boiler, then yes gas safe registered engineer. However it should be straightforward to just copy the wires as they are now, whatever the switching is will be the same. So L and N easy enough, put the Com from Salus to Com in Hive (1) and NO from Salus to No on Hive (3) and that’s it. The switching will have been confirmed originally and the Hive is capable of 24v to 230v.

 

[Dazzler_75]

If you’re opening up the boiler, then yes gas safe registered engineer. However it should be straightforward to just copy the wires as they are now, whatever the switching is will be the same. So L and N easy enough, put the Com from Salus to Com in Hive (1) and NO from Salus to No on Hive (3) and that’s it. The switching will have been confirmed originally and the Hive is capable of 24v to 230v.

Thanks for the reply, I understand the swapping of the wires and where they go for Hive, are you saying it doesnt matter if my boiler is set up for 24v or 230v switching? I obviously dont want to fry the pcb in boiler if its set up for 24v switch. I dont know how you find out and what to change etc? I have no idea what it is as Altech say it can be either, so as the Altech was installed by the previous house owner, I have no idea.

 

[CBW]

You could test it, but there’s no need, so yes it doesn’t matter. The boiler delivers the voltage to the Com and NO - so whatever it is be it 24v or 230v it doesn’t matter. What you’re getting confused with regards frying the pcb is if mains voltage is applied to the pcb thermostat output terminals, but these are already connected at the boiler end. Hope this makes more sense.

Edit: I’ve just checked the manual and it’s mains switching, so panic over.

 

[Dazzler_75]

You could test it, but there’s no need, so yes it doesn’t matter. The boiler delivers the voltage to the Com and NO - so whatever it is be it 24v or 230v it doesn’t matter. What you’re getting confused with regards frying the pcb is if mains voltage is applied to the pcb thermostat output terminals, but these are already connected at the boiler end. Hope this makes more sense.

Edit: I’ve just checked the manual and it’s mains switching, so panic over.

Ah ok, thanks for this I've been quoted £75 to install this yet it looked so simple to me other than this 24v switching issue. I assume this is just down to poorly worded/diagrams from Altech (Salus) confusing the issue.

 

[muggles]

Worth noting that the Ideal Logic is OpenTherm compatible so you'd be much better off with an OpenTherm stat such as Nest

 

[Dazzler_75]

Worth noting that the Ideal Logic is OpenTherm compatible so you'd be much better off with an OpenTherm stat such as Nest

I have no idea what open therm is to be honest,

 

[Dazzler_75]

You could test it, but there’s no need, so yes it doesn’t matter. The boiler delivers the voltage to the Com and NO - so whatever it is be it 24v or 230v it doesn’t matter. What you’re getting confused with regards frying the pcb is if mains voltage is applied to the pcb thermostat output terminals, but these are already connected at the boiler end. Hope this makes more sense.

Edit: I’ve just checked the manual and it’s mains switching, so panic over.

Where in the manual does it say this please? I do have the installers manual that was left by previous owner. I just couldnt figure out what I wanted to know, all Insaw was main power for boiler was 230v

 

[CBW]

Thanks @muggles - wasn’t sure if the OP intended to fit their own, hence just stayed on the Hive route. Now we know different we can say OT is better.

@Dazzler_75 opentherm works better for your heating as it modulates better.

 

[muggles]

I have no idea what open therm is to be honest,

OpenTherm is a two way data connection between the boiler and thermostat. It helps to reduce energy consumption by only heating radiators to the temperature they need to be to maintain a constant heat level in a room. Hive is just an on/off switch with an Internet connection and will do little to improve energy efficiency. Nest / Honeywell T6 / Drayton Wiser / Tado / EPH Ember will all help to reduce your heating bills using OpenTherm