Fitting new diaphragm to toilet cistern ball-cock valve

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The ball-cock valve in my old toilet cistern is leaking, so I decided to replace the valve and the arm. The plumber's merchant guy suggested I might only need to replace the rubber diaphragm in the valve so that's what I've tried to do but it's still leaking. There are a couple of parts in the valve and I'm not sure I've got them the right way round. Please could someone advise on this.

1. One side of the diaphragm has a bit at the centre of it slightly proud to the rest of the surface. Is it this side of the diaphragm that faces the arm and the float?

2. Between the diaphragm and the mains feed inlet there's a plastic part that isn't exactly cone shaped but it tapers at one end. Am I right that it's this tapered end that the diaphragm will press against to close off the water supply? This part with the tapered end had a plastic washer with it that I managed to lose under the floorboards. Can I use a rubber one of the same size etc instead? And I'm sure this is a dumb question but am I right that this washer goes on the flat face of the part, not the pointy end?
 
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That was the next step if this didn't work but if someone is able to help by answering my questions that would really help me. Thanks.
 
Rubber washer in place of plastic washer will be fine, this is just to seal that section of the valve. Nozzle tapers in the direction of flow, diaphragm will press against the tapered end to shut off the flow of water.
 
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Rubber washer in place of plastic washer will be fine, this is just to seal that section of the valve. Nozzle tapers in the direction of flow, diaphragm will press against the tapered end to shut off the flow of water.

That's great, thanks. And the bit at the centre of one side of of the diaphragm that's slightly raised from the rest, I've got pointing to the arm and float ... is that right?
 
Central proud section of the washer should press against the outlet to stop the flow when float reaches set water level.

Ah, I think I've done it the other way round ie. the screw at the end of the float arm pressing against the proud bit. But the good news is that it seems to have worked. Anyway, thanks for your help.
 

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