Fitting Roller Blind - Help!

10 Feb 2006
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United Kingdom
I fitted a new roller blind in the kitchen in my new house (built last year) a couple of weeks ago, I fitted it inside the window frame and secured it at the top using the plugs provided. It came Crashing down last week!
How do I get a better fixing? The plasterboard seems pretty bad, for the time being I have used:-

But even that screwed up a bit then just turned around!

I did try to drill a pilot hole in the lintel, I wasn't sure what is was made of, so i tried a Metal drill in my dremel (didn't want to use drill as its so close to the wall, the chuck would mark it and I would go in at an angle! But I couldn't drill!

Any Thoughts?


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Your better off, using the hollow wall anchors or even the spring toggle ones, then the ones you have used, once they start to turn in the plasterboard you won't get a secure fix.
May not be room for hollow fixings, glue a painted strip of 12mm ply cut to match the top recess with gripfill and leave overnight , then you can screw straight into it .
I did think about putting a piece of wood in there, but I guess this would mean cutting away some of the plasterboard, putting the wood in, then gluing the plaster board back? Just might look messy, I guess I could make the plaster board a bit thinner ( maybe sand it down \ cut a couple of mm off) and then use filler to the same level as the rest of the plaster board.

Might it be easier to drill the Lintel, if so, what type of drill (since the one I used didn't drill a pilot hole)?

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If you drilling in to a concrete lintel, you'll need a masonary bit the size will depend on the fixings your using. Have you determind if the lintel is concrete or metal, a metal bit for metal.
If you fitting a batten, removing a strip of plasterbord, when you fit the board you could opt for either 12.5 or 9.5mm thick board, this may help get your reveal level, you can then tape the joint with joint tape and fill out with easifill joint compound, this can be sanded down when dry and reapplied until you get an even surface. The surface should then be primed before you paint.
Thanks,not sire what type of Lintel I have, how do I find out? or is ot a case of trial and error with the different brill bits?

Also, I didn't know if there was something I could squirt up the holes that have been made by the fixings I have used, to give a bit of extra grip?

I don't want to put in a piece of board,seems like a lot of work.

I guess the other option would be to drill a hole in the side of the holder for the Roller blind and fix that way, what fixings would be best, taking into account that there might not be much room!


To find out whether its a steel or concrete beam, you we need to use a stud detector that can identify metal.

If it concrete, just use the normally plastic masonry raw plugs, it's best to pilot the hole first before using the correct bit size.
If the lintel is metal and using a high speed steel bit, pilot the hole first before use correct size steel bit, you will then need to use sel tapping screws to fix.
A lot of blinds these day are supplied with brackets that allow you to fix in to the window frame, I don't know if this is an option?

The option of drilling in to side holder(not sure what you mean by side holder) but if it means drilling in to you internal jamb reveals, they are normally masonry, and again use masonry raw plugs and drilling as explained above.
Thanks for that, I didn't even think about using a stud detector!

Regarding the side holder, what I mean was, the plastic brackets that come with the blind for the blind to clip into an rotate on have top ficings, but they also have the option to fit at the side instead of or as well as the top, so I might see if I can put a fixing in the side as well as the existing ones on the top.Obviously when you are pulling the blind up and down, you are putting strain on the fixings at the top, if I have fixings in the side as well I think this will help (can't do any harm I guess).


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