Fitting shower tray

[gcol]

I am only tanking the wall area where the shower enclosure is going aren't I? I mean I don't need to tank the floor anywheote="chriselevate";p="1323518"]I am only tanking the wall area where the shower enclosure is going aren't I? I mean I don't need to tank the floor anywhere etc?

That's correct.

Can I ask a quick questions about products.....
I have a big tub of white star.... can I use this this for both the floor and the walls?
I also have a bag of microflex.... can I use this for both the wall and the floor?

No to both.

One last question... Is there a way to colour the grout I've already got by adding a dye or aditive to the mix or do I need to bag of coloured grout... such as ivory colour?

Buy the colour of grout you want in the first place.

Sorry this really is the last question..... is topps tiles good on prices for tiles? Or should I be asking them to knock some money off the total order price?

You probably won't get anything knocked off the tiles, but adhesive and tanking you'll have more luck as you can quote them online prices for the same stuff.

 

[chriselevate]

I am only tanking the wall area where the shower enclosure is going aren't I? I mean I don't need to tank the floor anywheote="chriselevate";p="1323518"]I am only tanking the wall area where the shower enclosure is going aren't I? I mean I don't need to tank the floor anywhere etc?

That's correct.

Can I ask a quick questions about products.....
I have a big tub of white star.... can I use this this for both the floor and the walls?
I also have a bag of microflex.... can I use this for both the wall and the floor?

No to both.

One last question... Is there a way to colour the grout I've already got by adding a dye or aditive to the mix or do I need to bag of coloured grout... such as ivory colour?

Buy the colour of grout you want in the first place.

Sorry this really is the last question..... is topps tiles good on prices for tiles? Or should I be asking them to knock some money off the total order price?

You probably won't get anything knocked off the tiles, but adhesive and tanking you'll have more luck as you can quote them online prices for the same stuff.

Thanks.... so what products should I be using if the answer to white start and micro flex on the walls and floor is no?

Thanks

 

[dextrous]

White star and microflex are wall adhesives and grout respectively. For the floor you need to use flexible floor adhesive - the bal range will be available at Topps tiles, plus they will advise you of application methods and make sure you have the correct trowel for each job.

 

[amsie]

Sorry Chris, was busy all day.

What tiles are you laying on the wall and floor?

Also, Im more a fan of local tile shops than Topps tiles, and they could really do with the help right now. Im sure also that they will be able to beat Topps prices if you ask for a deal.

Regards

Paul

EX-Tile Shop Owner

 

[dextrous]

dextrous meant that although you usually fit the tray first and tile upto it, you can if you want leave the tray out, tile the easy tiling first,avoiding potential damage to the tray, leaving out the tiles around the tray, then returning to fit the tray later and the final tile cuts around the tray.

Thanks for explaining it far better than me . Also, like you I prefer independent tiling shops, but I think the op has a limited number of them in the local area.

 

[chriselevate]

Brill - thanks guys!

Appreciate your help as always.

Amsie in answer to your questions we're looking at porcelain tiles on the floor and walls.....

Something like this....

http://www.toppstiles.co.uk/tprod1455/section901/Zamora-Beige-Wall-and-Floor-Tile-30X60.html

 

[gcol]

Use Bal rapidset flexible adhesive or Bal single part flexible adhesive. Bal superflex for your grout. Get fussy on price with em - quote online prices.

 

[amsie]

dextrous meant that although you usually fit the tray first and tile upto it, you can if you want leave the tray out, tile the easy tiling first,avoiding potential damage to the tray, leaving out the tiles around the tray, then returning to fit the tray later and the final tile cuts around the tray.

Thanks for explaining it far better than me . Also, like you I prefer independent tiling shops, but I think the op has a limited number of them in the local area.

Lol, no worries.

I used to own a shop for a year, but it didnt work out, so just running the contract business now.

Chris,

Assuming you have a timber floor and plaster walls, use single part Flexible adhesive for non-porous tiles on the floor, use a slow setting adhesive for non-porous tiles on the wall.

Grout, single part flexible all over will be fine.

I, assuming again that you have plyed the floor? (sorry too tired to re-read all the post).

 

[dextrous]

I, assuming again that you have plyed the floor? (sorry too tired to re-read all the post).

Yes he has

 

[gcol]

...use a slow setting adhesive for non-porous tiles on the wall.

Why? If this is the sort of advice you were giving out when you had your shop; it's hardly surprising it didn't work out.

 

[chriselevate]

...use a slow setting adhesive for non-porous tiles on the wall.

Why? If this is the sort of advice you were giving out when you had your shop; it's hardly surprising it didn't work out.

Huh?

 

[gcol]

Don't roll your eyes Chris - people on here are trying to help at zero cost to you. If you don't understand something, say so, but don't roll your smilie eyes... it suggests that the poster is annoying you.

 

[chriselevate]

Sorry mate I'm just confused about your comment aimed at amsie?

You rolled your eyes and said that 'it's hardly surprising it didn't work out'.

Was merely doing the same in a confused state of mind.... not suggesting I'm annoyed. Sorry if it came across like that.

Cheers buddy.

 

[dextrous]

I think what amsie was suggesting was that you don't use fast setting adhesive on the walls since this can be quite hard to use as it can go off quite quickly. It's better to use the stuff you've got or a powdered adhesive which you mix with water to a reasonable consistency (multifinish consistency feels about right to me).

Personally, I tend to go for the powdered stuff as I find it much easier to spread with the flat side of the notched trowel and then notch it by turning the trowel over. Think your plastering abilities would find this likewise. I also tend to find that the premixed stuff tends to scrape off back onto the trowel if you try to work the notches. It's also easier to wipe/wash any excess adhesive, as you go, from the front or within the groutlines by the nature of it being water based. But others may disagree.

As for "how to tile" - search youtube. A quick look found several good examples of how to go about it. It's worth getting a decent sized metal notcher about the same size as a small plastering float and a proper grouting pad. I've had mine for years now.

 

[amsie]

...use a slow setting adhesive for non-porous tiles on the wall.

Why? If this is the sort of advice you were giving out when you had your shop; it's hardly surprising it didn't work out.

GCol, ok, i've been reading some of the posts from you and your BF JFoss, and tbh, both of you talk crap.

I'll just tell you where im at. If anyone done a sticky and advised me to only use BAL adhesives, and white star a bath area, id be the one running a mile.

Or shall I put it another way, if one of my fixers asked for BAL bucket adhesives and told me they were the best, and to use white star around a bath, or told me that it's common practice to tile walls before floors, id sack him.

Ok, I owned a tile shop for one year, it failed due to credit crunch. I lost quite a few quid in that venture and don't appreciate your little quip. Have you ever had the ****** to try something like that?

I also have been tiling 20 years, and owned a contract fixing firm for 7 years. In that time, we have worked for a lot of the major housebuilders, metronet, and others, the list is too numerous to mention. We do our work mainly in and around London. Currently I have around 15 fixers working for me and have had upto 45 fixers working for me.

I have also been invited to Spain several times to the tile factories, and seen how tiles are manufacturered first hand. Ditto a few of the adhesive manufacturers. I also get yearly invites to the Tile Show London. You?

I know reps from most of the suppliers, including Johnsons, Pilks, Granfix, Palace, and i'm always getting reps calling me wanting my business, including Ardex, Bal and all the others.

It seems to me yourself and JFoss are the "big daddies" here on the Tiling forum, and obviously don't like anyone else musceling in, so don't worry, I won't be sticking around after today, and you can go back to being the Daddies of tiling, advising people to waste money on BAL Products and talking crap, i'll get back to earning money out of my business.

Ok, to answer your point as to why use slow setting non-porous adhesive on a wall, seeing as you obviously don't know why.

Slow setting allows you to work longer with the mix when going on walls, and rapid set isnt neccessary really is it. Porcelain isnt a porous tile, so you need an adhesive suitable for Porcelain - non-porous tiles.

Why don't you ask the training school that trained you?

Chris, don't appologise to him, forums are for posting questions, answers and your views. If you want any advice from a pro company, and not a school trained out of the paper tiler, PM me as I won't be posting here again.