Fitting solid oak flooring.

[AndersonC]

I intend to install 130mmx18mm oak floorboards over the top of an existing upstairs timber floor. It is a major job to remove this existing timber floor so I want to just go over the top.

I've racked my brains a bit and have a few questions - hopefully none sound too stupid (I've done some searches in here too). I also take it the weight of such a floor is no issue.

The installation method I am going to use is blind nailing - hiring a floor nailer. Do the boards require any kind of expansion gap (a) between the boards and (b) around the edge of the whole floor? Do I just pull the T&G together, forming a 'continuous' surface?

Would I need to use 3mm foam underlay with blind nailing to prevent creaking etc?

Is it best to install this flooring before, or after, fitting replacement skirtings? I am thinking beforehand, so that the skirtings can cover any irregularities around the floor edge (obviously I'd have to be careful fitting the skirtings to avoid floor damage).

What kind of timescale do I need to consider for the floorboards to acclimatise in the room prior to installation? Is two weeks adequate - or could they be fitted sooner? (Is this idea good practice for any internal woodwork?)

Thanks a lot for any advice - hopefully I'll provide some photos of the job when complete.

 

[WoodYouLike]

How large is the area you plan to install the wood in?

It would perhaps be better to install the floor using the floating method, installing 3mm foam first for sound-insulation. Please note that the new boards are best installed in another direction than the existing floorboards to prevent movement if existing boards are cupped or uneven. If that's not possible (odd look) than you have to install hardboard or plywood first to level out.

Nailing is normally only done when you install directly onto joists, in other (most) circumstances the floating method doesn't cause any problems.

Leave expansion gaps all around the perimeter (minimum of 10mm, and add 3mm per meter width if room is wider than 3 meters). Mind the doorposts: leave room for expansion underneath there too.

 

[AndersonC]

Woodyoulike,

The room is about 3.5 x 3.7 metres. The intention is to install them at 90degrees to the existing boards.

Will the expansion gap you have quoted cater for the whole floor if the T&Gs are fitted together tightly?

To 'float' the floor would I be looking at glueing the T&G joints together and merely 'laying' them on top of the foam? (maybe wrong words)
Is there any possibility of the floor moving after installation when this technique is used?

Thanks a lot

 

[WoodYouLike]

Hi AndersonC

You need an expansion gap of around 13 - 15mm all around the floor (all on sides leave 13 - 15mm between wall/skirting and floor).
Floating is exactly how you desribe it, the weigth of the wood, plus the furniture later will leave th floor in place (we hardly ever have problems with it, we've seen more problems with floors being glued or nailed down in fact).

 

[AndersonC]

Another question (please excuse me I am very inquisitive)

What's the advantage of floating compared to nailing? If they're as good then what's easiest?

 

[WoodYouLike]

Advantages:
floating is indeed easier and as affective as nailing.

Nailing also means you might have more problems installing the floor when you're not that used to the tools (Portonailer etc) Nails wrongly inserted can cause lifting, creacking etc (and are a pain to remove with possible damage to the boards).

 

[mattysupra]

i wouldn't attempt nail system if you dont know what your doing as wood u like said. Just a little add on tho. When wood u like said leave expansion every where this includes the door frame to. So you need to undercut the frame so the new floor goes underneath it or you will be stuck with a big gap around it.

 

[WoodYouLike]

We make a good team

 

[AndersonC]

Not just "good", "excellent" is a more appropriate word.

Thanks for the assistance guys - can you recommend a decent adhesive by any chance? I'm guessing that I will need to get hold of a few of those flooring clamps too.......

 

[AndersonC]

Apologies for bringing this subject up again, however when I purchased the oak boards on Friday the retailer recommended that I nail them down. He said that because of the width (130mm) they may be prone to cupping if floated.

However, I would imagine that if boards are going to cup they will cup even if nailed down - some of the old pine boards are cupped and they are nailed.

He then mentioned acclimatisation - and that some of his customers don't acclimatise the timber. I have assumed that leaving the boards to acclimatise for a suitable time period prior to installation would reduce the likelihood of cupping occurring. I was planning on leaving the boards for about 8-10 days in the room prior to fitting. Is this long enough? (The boards are 18mm thick, solid oak).

Thanks in anticipation.

 

[WoodYouLike]

Wide boards are prone to cup more easier than the width you bought! And you're right, when wood wants to go, it goes; glued down, nailed down or floating - it goes!

8 - 10 days is more than sufficient, as long as your retailer has stored the wood according to the standards: 9 - 11% moist, not more, not less.

 

[mattysupra]

if glued you have least risk of floor cupping/crowning etc. I would like to leave wood longer than that to acclimatize unless you own a wood species meter to check moister content of flooring. It may be spot on which then you can install straight away but you dont know how wood was stored before you brought it. Better to be safe than sorry. I went out to see a complaint on a solid floor that had been stored in wet conditions ie- someones garage for 6 months and even tho had been given 3 weeks to acclimatize in house had started to gap badly 2 weeks after fitting. When tested floor it was still reading little on the high side to border line for install and this was after it had been in house for 5 weeks! The chances of your flooring been stored like this is very slim so dont start thinking you have to leave it 5 weeks. I like to leave approx 3 weeks if you dont own a meter.