Wooden flooring - to nail or float?

[str]

Plan to install a new solid oak floor over the original suspended timber floorboards.

I have installed a floor previously and secretly nail it to the suspended floor.

But what would be best practice? Did i did before and secretly nail or lay as a floating floor?

With a floating floor, I assume I glue and clamp the board together as they are laid.

In case it make any difference, I plan to renew all the skirtings/facings, so the expansion gap will be hidden by the new skirting.

 

[crazydaze]

If you are nailing, you need to 9mm ply the whole floor first, this will give you a proper, solid feel under foot.

If you float the floor, you will get more echo, but the floor will be more stable and will expand and contract more freely leading to fewer potential issues in the future.

 

[ponyagent]

having looked in to this , i would suggest you check with the manufacture because if you dont do as they suggest it may void the garantee

 

[str]

Ordered th new solid wooden flooring, 150 mm wide planks and plan to secret nail the floor to the existing timber boards (suspended). Plan to remove all he skirtings and door facings so an expansion gap can be created.

I am not sure how to deal with the expansion gap round the fireplace hearth? The previous floor I fitted (in another room) I fitted the floor hard upto the hearth and have a bit of bounce in the floor in that area. But how do I hid the expansion gap round the hearth?!

Also, if I need to lay ply onto the existing floor, should I also lay some of the underlay you get for flooring?

 

[WoodYouLike]

for around your fireplace, see this article with examples

As for underlayment when secret nailing, waste of money and materials - the underlayment will impress with the nail, redering it useless

 

[str]

does it still make sense to install 9mm ply before the new floor?

 

[WoodYouLike]

Normally only when the new boards go in the same direction as the existing floorboards

 

[str]

last questiong - would I be making problems for my self if I lay boards in a "frame" type layout around the hearth, ie single plank width with mitred corners.

the rest of the floor would be laid normally.

not sure how this would be effected by the expansion of the two planks at the short sides of the hearth that would be laid in the opposite direction to that of the remaining floor. If it makes a difference, I would probably cut these planks so that that are half the width.

Hopefully I explained this enough - I have seen it done before on an original timber floor around a hearth

 

[WoodYouLike]

As long as this frame is rebated underneath, so it can "snap off" if and when needed I don't think there is a problem

 

[str]

not sure I follow?

the "frame" would sit at the same level and be flush with the finished floor - i would still intend to use the oak strip you have suggested to allow for expansion around the hearth.

where would I rebate?

 

[WoodYouLike]

What I meant was, the side of the frame that buts against your fire place should be rebated underneath, so in the event the floor expands it breaks off without damaging your floor

 

[str]

is that so the "frame" element would break if the floor expanded? I have done a quick drawing to illustrate what I am thinking of doind - does my drawing of the frame being rebated show what you suggest?

Untitled

• str
• 9 Oct 2012
• 1

if this is correct, would i still need the oak strip to hide an expansion gap round the hearth?

 

[WoodYouLike]

I would always opt for a true expansion gap around the hearth, but that's me talking as a professional.
Your rebated frame could work, as long as the "lip" is thin enough and there are no disasters in regards of excessive moist or humidity

 

[str]

from a professional point of view, would you even consider the "frame" type layout around the hearth or am i just leaving myself open to any number of issues?

i have seen examples of wooden floors where part of the room has been laid in one direction with a portion at an angle to it - how do you allow for expansion in this case?

thanks for all your advice!

 

[WoodYouLike]

We'done it ourselves (in our own home that is, never at a client's) without too much problems.

As for changing directions: most often wood-engineered boards are used for this, or "parquet" flooring, fully bonded to the underfloor. I wouldn't do this with solid floorboads