Fitting to go with cables (how to wire a cooker)

[Stri]

Hi there,

I just bought an electric cooker today but it's not wired to a plug. After looking at the manual and the B&Q site I realize I need about a meter of the cable below. The kitchen has a socket to carry the extra voltage that a cooker will need.

I have a couple of questions:

1. I need to identify the correct fitting to connect the cable from the cooker to the one I buy. Could someone suggest what this would be. I can't imagine that electricians tape would be sufficient for this kind of cable.

2. I need to identify what sort of plug is required as a standard plug obviously isn't going to carry the fuse required.

The manual says only wire it if you're an electrician or a competent person. I'll have some of the latter then.

Core Size (mm): 6.0
Length (m): 2.0
Brand: Pirelli
Colour: Grey
Warranty/guarantee: Guarantee
Warranty/guarantee details: 1 Year
Amps: 46.0
Size : 6mm
Volts: 240.0
Category: Cables
Category: Twin & Earth Cables

Thanks for any/all replies.

 

[1john]

If they are suggesting that you need a 6mm cable then you cannot plug it in, you will need a designated cooker circuit, it cannot be ran from the socket circuit

 

[Stri]

If I've understood you correctly then this cannot be the case. There is a socket in the kitchen with an an isolator switch on it with cooker written on it.

 

[1john]

where was your old cooker connected too?

 

[Stri]

This is the first cooker I've had here. I was using a grill and microwave.

There is a dedicated socket on the wall for a cooker, hence the switch so I think that brings me back to my original questions.

 

[1john]

what is the rating of the cooker? what size cable feeds this designated socket?

 

[joinerjohn]

Look on the wall in the space the cooker is going into. There should be a blanking plate. This will be connected by 6mm cable to the switch above marked cooker. I'd recommend getting a qualified sparky in to do the connection.

The socket at the side of the switch marked cooker is just a 13 amp socket for kettles etc. Under no circumstances connect the cooker to a plug in this socket.

 

[JohnD]

If I've understood you correctly then this cannot be the case. There is a socket in the kitchen with an an isolator switch on it with cooker written on it.

the isolator switch is not for the socket. It is (should be) supplied from a dedicated Cooker Circuit and the switch will control a cooker connection point which is probably plastered into the wall below worktop height, at the position where the previous owner, or the electrician, thought would be convenient.

the socket by the cooker switch is just a convenient outlet dating back to the days when kitchens did not have many sockets.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

There is a dedicated socket on the wall for a cooker, hence the switch so I think that brings me back to my original questions.

So what type of plug top was on the cooker that was used on this circuit, what size breaker is protecting the circuit, what size is the cable of this circuit?
Your best option would be to replace the socket and install a cooker outlet plate and hard wire to that.
Providing the circuit is suitable to use!
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/50538...oulded/Volex-Range/Volex-Cooker-Outlet-Plate?

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Are you talking about one of these?

Untitled

• PrenticeBoyofDerry
• 20 Aug 2010
• 3

They are not designed to be used on 46A cookers, you plug your toaster in to that!

 

[JohnD]

The manual says only wire it if you're an electrician or a competent person.

'mmmmmmmmmmm

 

[1john]

Are you talking about one of these?

Untitled

• PrenticeBoyofDerry
• 20 Aug 2010
• 3

They are not designed to be used on 46A cookers, you plug your toaster in to that!

or your kettle, or guava juice extractor

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

[ or guava juice extractor

posh git!

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Stri, don't replace the cooker contol unit with the cooker outlet plate,
determine that the circuit is suitable then run a link between CCU behind the cooker then hard wire outlet plate. Becomes notifiable work then!
But is there not something there already?

 

[sparkwright]

The cooker panel that you have described consists of a large switch which will control the cooker, with a separate socket incorporated into it for small appliances.

The big switch which controls the cooker should supply a cable which will either
1. go to a cooker outlet. You connect the cooker to this with a short length of cable.
2. go to a socket outlet. Sometimes a standard cooker outlet can be replaced with a socket for convenience if a small cooking appliance is to be used.
3. go straight into the cooker. Sometimes when someone can't be bothered to install a cooker outlet they just run a continous cable from the switch into the back of the cooker.
4. it may be possible your cooker panel only has a cable supplying it, and an outgoing cable hasn't yet even been installed.

We need to know what set up you have.