fittings confusion

[dalai]

trying to replace/swap hot/cold pipes from isolators valves to taps
but confused about fitting types?

Are there 2 types - compression (nut & olive) and nut & washer?

How can you tell what's already fitted?

 

[Burnerman]

You can get tap connectors (with a fibre washer) that are either compression type or solder type, and your new pipe work is joined onto these.
With some older taps, the 15mm pipe supply can pass into the body of the tap, and the connection is made with an olive and nut.
John

 

[longdogs]

If you mean flexis then yes sometimes they have a compression fitting on the end which tightens onto the copper pipe and sometimes a nut containing a rubber washer (1/2" BSP). I am assuming you are talking about 15mm. If you have isolators then the version with nut and washer should fit directly onto the thread but don't over tighten.

 

[fluxeyfingers]

If you look at the part the nut screws on to, a compression joint has a little taper for the olive to fit into whereas the washer type has a flat face. A handy bodge to convert between the two is to use an old compression rad tail as a joining piece - not the intended use for them but it works!

 

[dalai]

I'm fitting a mixer tap to the bath but it has hot on the left so I need to swap over the hot/cold pipe work.

I'm an engineer but not a plumber and wanted to prepare everything before I start to avoid long delays.

I'm still confused but here are a few images that may help.

isolator valves

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• dalai
• 17 Jul 2014
• 1

taps

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• dalai
• 17 Jul 2014
• 1

[/img]

is it possible to identify what connection type these are?

 

[Belboz]

They look like normal soldered tap connectors at the tap end and a normal soldered T at the other.

You can get flexible push-fit tap valves with a tap connector one end and a push fit the other. That means you could isolate the supplies (I see you already have isolating valves) cut the pipe then fit the 15mm push-fits on the supply ends and screw the tap connectors to the new tap unit.

You also get compression to tap fittings if you prefer.

 

[fluxeyfingers]

If you have a high pressure system (combi / thermal store / unvented cylinder) then probably the simplest fix is to get two long flexi hoses, cut the pipes and fit the flexi's crossed over.

If you have a vented cylinder it would probably be worth re-piping it without flexis as you may encounter a low flow situation, although large bore flexis are available, they're less easy to find. As Belboz says you can get flexi's with iso valves built in, or use a compression iso valve, some of the left over pipe, and a flexi.

 

[dalai]

ok thanks.

are there many different types of isolator connectors and tap connectors?

what is a "normal soldered tap connectors" or "normal standard T?

because this is supply a mixer shower I wanted to avoid possible flow problems with flexi hose so I was planning to redo the pipework but didn't want to remove it and the have a week without bath taps.

perhaps there is a site I could go to, to learn the basics

 

[Belboz]

There are several types of pipe connections...

Soldered connections using copper fittings is what you have. Fitting these is a skilled job and not for the average DIYer (IMHO)

There are two other main types;

push-fit - these fit on to either copper pipe or plastic pipe and, as the name suggest, push on (basically)

compression - these fit onto copper pipe but they are tightened up which, in turn, compresses a soft olive inside making a watertight seal.

That is a VERY basic description and I am sure the experts on here will probably correct me.

You can run new pipework in copper using compression fittings or in plastic using push fit.

Alternatively, get a plumber in run the new pipework with soldered joints.

I would suggest the easiest way is to isolate then run plastic pipe. You can get 15mm straight couplings and 15mm tap couplings most anywhere.

However, that's just my humble opinion because I think you will find that much easier than running it in copper using bends and compression.

BUT......the experts here will have more knowledge about whether this method is suitable for your type of system.

B

 

[fluxeyfingers]

Indeed, it can be tricky soldering under baths, especially if they're acrylic. I agree with Belboz, the simple method if the cylinder is vented would be to use plastic pipe and push-fit fittings. However, you can use compression on plastic. When using plastic it's important to use pipe inserts at every fitting, also I would advise to use compression iso valves, as the plastic ones are a bit carp.

If you're using push fit, make sure there's no crud on the copper pipes which could interfere with the o-ring seal.

 

[Belboz]

Indeed, it can be tricky soldering under baths, especially if they're acrylic. I agree with Belboz, the simple method if the cylinder is vented would be to use plastic pipe and push-fit fittings. However, you can use compression on plastic. When using plastic it's important to pipe inserts at every fitting, also I would advise to use compression iso valves, as the plastic ones are a bit carp.

If you're using push fit, make sure there's no crud on the copper pipes which could interfere with the o-ring seal.

Agreed but he already has isolating valves for the hot and cold tap supply according to the pics.

Or am I wrong??

 

[fluxeyfingers]

No, you're not wrong, I didn't examine the pic closely enough.

 

[dalai]

I think I need help from a plumber?

have valient eco TEC plus 824

 

[fluxeyfingers]

The crossed push-fit flexi's will be fine then (It's a combi).

If you're not confident to do it maybe time to get someone in.

 

[Belboz]

dalai,

Assuming the experts on here agree that your system would not prevent you running plastic and push-fit then it is a relatively simple process depending on how confident you are with DIY.

The only downside I can see is cost because, AFAIK, you need to buy plastic pipe in set coils and you would end up with a lot more than you need. Also, you may not have the necessary tools for the job.

The fittings don't cost very much themsleves and are relatively straightforward to fit once you have cut the copper pipe and then cut the plastic pipe to the necessary lengths.

Up to you as I don't know what tools you have available and what DIY skills you have.

Pity you don't want to use flexi fittings as two of those and a 15mm pipe cutter wouldn't cost the earth and make it a simple job.