Fixing Plasterboard to walls - do I need to batten?

[ChrisKingston]

Thanks for all the help, I think I cracked it (not literally). For anyone else trying to do the same this seems to have worked:

Used 10-12mm flat wood bit (buy cheap one you can chuck when done) and pre-drilled countersinks about 4mm deep into the Aquapanel where I later fixed. (Even when screwing into timber, I found I had to countersink a bit just to get the proper Aquapanel screws to sit flush).

Used normal (Wickes) plasterboard adhesive to get the Aquapanel on wall. I did big wide strips at about 250mm centres instead of trying to dot, and the thickness was about 6-7mm thick. This felt pretty solid to be honest, but maybe it would have failed over time.

Drill through the countersinks, adhesive and into the wall (quite a bit deeper than your fixings I found). If any sound hollow (i.e. you missed the adhesive) then don't use.

Use some small (I used No. 6 x 60mm) hammer fixings, although screw rather than hammer them in. I went for stainless steel ones in case of corrosion, but don't really know if that's really a worry and they are quite pricey.

A bit laborious but it seems to have worked. Thanks again for all the advice. I'll get this bathroom finished one day...

 

[RrogerD]

Hi ChrisKingston and Richard C,

Just carrying out the exact same project and have been reading with earnest, all of your comments and advice.

Have to say, a BIG thank you to Richard C for all of his very clear, useful and non-derogatory advice.

ChrisKingston, I see from the date of your post that it is some 2yrs past since you completed your project.
- Is all still ok?
- Have the boards and tiles held up?
- Have you had any issues with damp seepage or anything else?
- did screwing the hammer fixings enable the boards to be pulled tight, ok?
- In hindsight, is there anything that you would have done differently?

Many thanks for everything.

Regards,

Rroger_D

 

[ChrisKingston]

Morning,

Yes, this has been my main shower for a couple of years now and has been fine. Obviously I haven't taken the tiles off the wall to have a look underneath, but nothing has failed and there have been no leaks that I have detected.

Only other detail was I used a decent tile adhesive - Mapei Keraquick with the latex - which I think is quite forgiving and very strong.

I don't know whether the stainless steel hammer fixings are necessary but others may be able to advise.

As with any dot-and-dab, making sure the brick has been thoroughly cleaned before you put the adhesive on.

But overall, it seems to have worked.

Good luck,
Chris

 

[ChrisKingston]

Sorry, missed the bit about the hammer fixings, yes, they allowed the boards to end up tight, but to be honest the adhesive seemed to do that on its own. It might be worth using 6 x 80s depending on quality of your brickwork, it's only another few seconds with the drill and screwdriver.

Oh, and I've always found hammer fixings and power screwdrivers a bad combination, especially for the last bit. Don't know why but they seem to go much tighter if you hand-screw them in, with plenty of pushing. Bit knackering but you get much better fixing.

 

[Happyplumber]

You want to buy yourself a decent impact screwdriver and then I would love to see you put screws in tight as one of those

My Milwaukee 12v will drive in 4" screws into timber without any pilot holes and will countersink in one swoop

I highly recommend one to you