Fixing wallplate to concrete block

Joined
16 Jul 2006
Messages
297
Reaction score
2
Location
Wales
Country
United Kingdom
Hi there, I'll be fitting a box profile metal roof to my garage. Not apex.

I'm using a 4x2 wall plate on a bed of mortar, should I also secure it to the concrete block using hew screws and plugs? (see pic below)


Also, I'm using 3x2's to support the roofing sheets (400mm centres), securing them to the wall plate using the birdsmouth cut, what should the distance be where the dot is on my pic below? 50mm?

Thanks for any help

 
Sponsored Links
If the roof is going to be flat roof why cut a birdsmouth? :confused:
Hi there, I'll be fitting a box profile metal roof to my garage. Not apex.

I'm using a 4x2 wall plate on a bed of mortar, should I also secure it to the concrete block using hew screws and plugs? (see pic below)


Also, I'm using 3x2's to support the roofing sheets (400mm centres), securing them to the wall plate using the birdsmouth cut, what should the distance be where the dot is on my pic below? 50mm?

Thanks for any help

 
Fix the wall plate using vertical restraint straps at not more than 2m centres. Screw them into the wall plate and also into the masonry using at least 3 screws.

Birdsmouth cut should be no more than 1/3 the depth of the rafter, although I agree, don't think you need a birdsmouth at that pitch...maybe some expert roofers have a different opinion?

Are you sure 50x75 joists will be strong enough? I don't think they will span much more than 2 metres even if your roof is very light. A good snow storm and your roof might end up on your car :p
 
Sponsored Links
Thanks for the help, I'll put some vertical straps in then. No need to screw down wallplate then I imagine? Just mortar?

Birdsmouth would be best because the fascia board (same profile as the roof) will sit nicely up against it I believe. I'll follow the 1/3 guideline ie no more than 25mm.

Well my uncle suggested 3x2 to save a little on costs and put them closer ie 400mm, I've already got the timber now as well :confused: How about if I pick up some more 3x2's and have 300mm centres instead? They are spanning 3 metres.

Thanks for the help and advice
 
Well my uncle suggested 3x2 to save a little on costs and put them closer ie 400mm, I've already got the timber now as well :confused: How about if I pick up some more 3x2's and have 300mm centres instead? They are spanning 3 metres.
I hope your Uncle has good PI insurance..

3x2s spanning 3m with typical snow and basic roof makeup (metal sheeting-no soffit or insulation) your looking at about 125mm centres for building regs..
So your saving isnt looking like a saving.. would be cheaper to get in some 50x150 (6x2s) C16 joists at 400 c/c..
 
Static";p="1693685 said:
Well my uncle
I hope your Uncle has good PI insurance..

3x2s spanning 3m with typical snow and basic roof makeup (metal sheeting-no soffit or insulation) your looking at about 125mm centres for building regs..
So your saving isnt looking like a saving.. would be cheaper to get in some 50x150 (6x2s) C16 joists at 400 c/c..

Thanks for the advice. Damn it :cry:

Paid £40 for 14 x 3x2, extra £44 for the 6x2's... Wish I came here now.
I'm hoping the timber company will take them back and swap.
Cheers
 
you could make some great garage racking and workbenches with those 3x2's and 6x2's

Gary
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top